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Cat Ba Island, Vietnam

Ha Long Bay’s famous limestone karsts just out from every side of Cat Ba Island, a beautiful little piece of Vietnam situated on the Eastern Sea (or South China Sea, depending on who you ask). Cat Ba is both beautiful and shabby, a tourist attraction and then again not – there are a total of three ATMs on the island, whose main means of income is still farming and fishing, but a huge resort, currently under construction, will likely ruin the secluded feeling that Cat Ba brings. Getting there is half the fun – you take a bus from Hanoi to Haiphong, and from there you get on a hydrofoil boat (don’t bring much luggage – it’s hard to heave it across the small gangplanks onto the boats) to take another bus to Cat Ba Town. The main things to do in Cat Ba are, of course, take in the beaches, eat fresh seafood, and hike, climb, and swim among the beautiful karsts in the bay. Recently named a UNESCO site, the area is used to tourists from all over the world, and you’ll see many Australian, American, and European ex-pats mixing in with the locals as the island’s popularity grows. Don’t miss kayaking (and swimming and climbing – try Noble House (now Asia Outdoors) or Blue Swimmer for packages) and strolling around the waterside, try your hand at rock climbing, and see if you can spot one of the rare Cat Ba langurs, an endangered species that is a symbol of the island. History lovers might enjoy checking out Hospital Cave, a Japanese-built Vietnam War site with one of the goofiest tour guides you’ll ever meet – the ride out to the cave alone, on the back of a xe om (motorbike taxi) is worth the visit. The island also has a national park with several different hiking trails (and a pretty nice vista view point – the xe oms will gladly take you there and wait if you’re in a rush), and Cat Co #2 is touted as the best public beach. Go to Cat Ba now, before it becomes a seaside resort and loses some of its shabby chic charm.

Great Eat: Gracie’s, Salt Lake City UT

Famed as one of the only “gastropubs” in Salt Lake City, Gracie’s has the inner decor of a sport’s bar but the menu of a boutique restaurant. Your cheeseburger might be made of Kobe beef and contain Gruyère cheese instead of cheddar, and your fries might be cooked in duck fat, but, otherwise, the menu is basically full of old favorites done up in some slightly different ingredients. The bar area on the bottom floor is a jolly area, but the upstairs area, complete with pool tables, has the high-backed bench seats you see in good pubs and any Irish bar. The service is prompt and the folks are friendly, and for an in-land restaurant, the Ahi Tuna roll was one of the best I’ve ever had. Ribs, pho, and spumoni all share the same menu at Gracie’s, which is a short walk from Temple Square; next time you’re in SLC, you won’t be disappointed if you tuck in a bite at there.

Great Eat: Brasserie Esemeralla, Paris, France

My friends and I were sitting in the grass behind the cathedral of Notre Dame and eating a picnic lunch, when suddenly a man came over and posed beside us while his friend took a picture of us all; I’ve always wondered what those guys thought after they looked through their travel photos years later. It’s odd that someone else has a photo of one of the best little picnic meals I’ve ever had. The Brassiere Esemeralla, located quite conveniently off of Square Jean XXIII and Pont Saint Louis, specializes in bit meals to go, and it suits a nice September afternoon picnic quite nicely. Since it’s a typical Parisienne brasserie, there’s seafood, beef and lamb with vegetables, but there are also fresh, made-when-you-order crêpes, made with the sharpest cheese I’ve ever had melted over bright veggies and tender chicken. There’s something on the menu for everyone, and you can eat inside, outside, or take your food to go. We took ours, as you already know, to the park, and enjoyed fresh fruit along with our warm crêpes. Even if the cathedral area is touristy, you still can get some of the Paris vibe without feeling cheated – simply eat, drink, and do your own thing, and qui s’inquiète des autres?

Savannah, GA

I’ve always preferred Savannah, GA over Charleston, SC – not that these two coastal southern towns really invite comparison, but it always seems that some people prefer one over the other.  I think it had to do, in my case, with exposure: Charleston in August is an oven of unhappy compared to Savannah in October.  Savannah maintains an overall spooky, haunted, ethereal vibe. Perhaps it’s due to the Spanish moss hanging eerily on the giant oaks lining Savannah’s main thoroughfares.  Perhaps this is because of the city’s seeming “division” between historic district and the rest of the town, so that teetering down the cobblestones of River Street and talking to Gullah folk artists is literally removed from the bustle of the city center. The Savannah College of Art and Design not only begets Savannah an eclectic mixture of young and hip art students, but it also has helped the city restore its natural architecture along with a constant pursuit of mixed media arts; SCAD ushers all sorts of film, sculpture, print, music, theater, and “traditional” arts (think painting) into the fold of Savannah’s city limits. Of course, the looming shadow of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil hangs over Forsyth Park and the cities countless cemeteries, as well as the numerous historical squares and round-a-bouts that litter the city; those who are round-about challenged would do best to walk.  Fresh seafood meals by the river are always a treat, but don’t miss the Byrd Cookie Company as well as a quiet rest at The Book Lady, one of the best bookstores I’ve had the pleasure to camp out in. You can find happiness just strolling down River Street with a River Street homemade piece of fudge or listening to a groovy band in one of Savannah’s many rollicking-character dives (Pinkie Masters is one of the most popular); it’s worth your time to take a trip to sunny, spooky and seductive Savannah.

JR: Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso (aka. Valpo) is the first place I think of when thinking of a Chilean port city. It’s a short bus ride away from Santiago and right next door to Vina del Mar. This part of the Chilean coast is pretty rocky, and Valpo is built with small houses virtually sitting on top of each other all the way up the hill. It’s a pretty site to see the different colored tin roofs speckling the long descent to the water. There is fantastic seafood here, and if you have the time, taking a tour of Pablo Neruda’s house is worth it. The guy collected all kinds of neat and weird stuff. You can also get guided boat rides around the harbor area, where there is an open market and lots of people walking around. Great for a day or two away from Santiago.

Juror #14

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