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Great Eat: Il Fornello, London

If you’re poking around Russell Square (the British Museum area) of London and it’s cold and you are in desperate need of warmth, you need to go to Il Fornello (150 Southampton Row, known for being open even on holidays). Not only are the owners and wait staff Italian (there is a lone Spaniard, but he speaks beautiful Italian), but they exude the “eat! be merry!” Italian attitude that is hard to muster on a chilly London evening. I had some of the best spaghetti bolognese I’ve ever had there, and the waiter was the nice and friendly and sent my garlic bread (I didn’t want cheese) back twice without me saying anything about it. The ladies eating near me – Italian ex-pats – tucked in on the Scalloppine al Marsala and Costolette d’Agnello alla Griglia, and we all agreed that the tiramisu was divine. Il Fornello is a great place to meet friends or make new ones – the atmosphere is homey and worn, but in a good sort of way. They have cheeses and antipasti dishes that would satisfy meat lovers and vegetarians, and their Italian fair is traditionally and resolutely Italian; the beers and waters selection are even imported from Italy. Next time you’re looking for Italian food in London (for a decent cost), consider Il Fornello – you won’t be disappointed.

BOO!

Happy Halloween!

We’re celebrating the holiday by checking through the archives for the scariest places and spaces we’ve been? Dare to go on..?

…Roam among the gravestones of survivors of yellow fever and the University of Tennessee’s “bodies of science” dedication in Elwood Cemetary in Memphis, Tennessee
…Check out the rumors of witchcraft and Native American folklore at 40 Acre Rock Heritage Preserve in South Carolina
…Drift among the above-ground graves of New Orleans, Louisiana
…Take a real ghost tour in Key West, Florida
…Look for Jack the Ripper while walking the streets of London, England
…See if you pass the ghost of an Emperor in the Ming Mang Tomb in Hue, Vietnam
…Poke around the ports of Charleston, South Carolina and Savannah, Georgia to see if you can scare up any pirates…

…HAPPY HALLOWEEN!…

Manchester, UK

While visions of unibrowed-Oasis singers danced in my head, I got off the bus in downtown Manchester on a chilly and damp November day; I was there by luck – a work trip to London coincided nicely with seeing one of my favorite comedians, Eddie Izzard, at the glossy MEN arena in Manchester, and I had time to explore the bustling city. It was near Christmas time, so all the shops in the North Quarter were a hub of excitement and laughter. By nightfall the area around the glistening Urbis Museum (sort of smaller-scale Picadilly Circus – the area, not the abstract-art-glass-architecture museum) was bustling, and the Manchester Wheel (small scale London Eye) boasted many giggling teenagers queuing up. People were milling around in the sleek Picadilly Gardens, and I enjoyed eating my makeshift picnic lunch while watching some city workers put holiday lights up in the trees surrounding an imposing statue of Queen Victoria. Walking the city brought me to the fabulous Imperial War Museum, as well as charming glimpses at the dimly-lit cafes and curry houses set against the River Tame; and, while I walked, a friend who’d been to the city did advise that the trams are really easy to use. Manchester Cathedral was imposing at dusk, but the gorgeous little lit-foodpath/waterfall area around it, enhanced by skate-boarding kids, was very urbane and welcoming. Manchester has Roman fortress ruins and the cute (refurbished) Shambles Square, and is a sports hub with football clubs Manchester United (Man U!) and Manchester City (com’on, Ci-t-y!). The Manchester accent is one of my favorites of England, and the people felt less chilly and distant than the rushed crispness of Londoners; hope you get to hear it soon.

Happy Thanksgiving!

TravelByJury.com is taking off ’til next Monday, November 29th, for the Thanksgiving Holiday! Until then, why not check out some of our “Great Eats” reviews, listed below (or you can browse via our little category search menu, to your left)?

TravelByJury.com is thankful for you, dear readers, and very thankful for our intrepid jurors; Happy Thanksgiving to All!

Maggie Jones; London, England
The General Greene & Cake Man Raven; Brooklyn, New York, USA
La Paella De La Reina; Madrid, Spain
Brasserie Esemeralla; Paris, France
Black Bear Bakery; St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Murphy’s Ice Cream; Dingle, Ireland
Ristorante Zeppelin; Orvieto, Italy
Uto Klum; Üetliberg, Switzerland
Seviche, Louisville, Kentucky, USA
Unnammed; Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama
Three Carrots Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
White Horse Tavern; New York City, New York, USA
The Duke of York; London, England

LR/Great Eat: Maggie Jones, London, UK

So you decided to take that trip to London with that certain someone… Awesome! London is one my favorite cities in Europe. Of course like most major metropolitan cities when you arrive you are bombarded by tourist traps and chain restaurants.

Let me tell you about a little romantic secret place called Maggie Jones that only the locals of Kensington know about. I vote it as the best romantic place to eat in central London.

Tucked away in the heart of the city off of the hustle and bustle of the high street is a place that most people walk right by without evening knowing it’s there. Maggie Jones offers a quaint romantic feeling that makes you feel all warm and cozy inside like a modern day romance book. With dark wooden beams and small tucked away tables you will quickly forget where you are.

Along with its charming appeal, Magie Jones serves a traditional English food menu that embarrasses the classic meat and two veg approach. However they manage to do this with a gourmet flare. The wine menu is as good as any, and the staff will help you with your selection.

Although tucked away from the high street, Maggie Jones is very popular. I recommend that you stop by at lunch time while seeing the local sights and make reservations.

Maggie Jones
6 Old CT Pl, London W8 4PL
Nearest Tube Station:
High Steet Kensington

Juror #30

Bath, UK

Let’s just get it out of the way quickly – the Roman baths in Bath, England (hence the name) make for an amazing visit to Western culture’s historical past. Of course Rome or the whole of Italy might better suit your need for Roman history, but knowing that the Romans traveled as far as Bath to set up their geothermal wonder is enough of a fulcrum for your imagination to hinge upon; the baths are still running, thousands upon thousands of years later, and the water is still warm. The friezes in the Roman Baths are still intact (mostly) and beautiful; for a pound, you can drink from the waters of the baths, but don’t expect a refreshing drink. Other than the Roman Baths, Bath Abbey (right beside them) is a great place to hang out; grab your lunch to go and watch the street performers, whose varied talents and piccalillis may charm you into thinking Bath is all about fun. And why not? Aside from the historic landmarks, such as the impressive architecture of the Royal Crescent and the Pulteney Bridge, there’s the great Sydney Gardens and the Royal Victoria Park, where all sorts of interesting folk are hanging out and having a good time. Bath’s rugby presence is strong; ask random people wearing rugby jerseys questions and you won’t wont for more enthusiastic conversation. Staying in Bath is easy, as it’s a tourist-heavy town, and there’s more food and artisan shops in the city to keep you occupied for months. Fun fact: if you take the train to Bath from Paddington Station in London (very easy train ride, and Bath’s small enough so that getting from the train station to the inner part of the town could be walked, if you felt like it) you’ll see at least two of the mysterious white horse “hill figures” carved in the sides of England’s hills and dales. Bath is all about history, theater, and art, but there’s a lot more to the city than just tourist attractions; hang out and see what all this city has to offer.

Great Eats: The Duke of York, London, UK

When I lived in London, The Duke of York was my neighborhood pub, and because St. John’s Wood is a pricey neighborhood, it’s advised that the Duke can put a small hole in your wallet if you eat there frequently. Normally, I’d take my daily drink there soak up the old-school England pub atmosphere; you can also, in good weather, take your meal and drink outside. The beer list is fantastic, even though I just stick to Budweiser (they know me by my beer order and used to say that I was the reason they stocked “that“). But if you want to eat, the Duke is a great place to do it; it’s been labeled a “gastro pub” of late, probably owing to the Moroccan-style interior and inspired dishes. But don’t be fooled – the best Yorkie fries in London are at the Duke of York, and their peanut-butter chicken is ridiculously good. There’s also traditional Brit fair, like beef and sausage with peas and gravy, but I’d get out of your comfort zone and eat some of the more “worldly” menu items. Evening is the best time to go to the Duke, though it gets crowded with the neighborhood crowd fairly quickly from Thursday through the weekends. Please go, and leave a pound for your bartender; the crew at the Duke are from all over the world and can, if you’re traveling solo, make for terrific conversation partners.

London, England

There’s not enough room for me to talk about my love for London; I lived there. Walk around – take the tube, but stroll Primrose Hill. Grab a drink at my old neighborhood (St. John’s Wood) pub, the Duke of York – their peanut butter chicken is delicious. Cheaper pubs include the Wetherspoon’s chain if you’re on a budget. The Saatchi Gallery is worth the price, and most of the other (fabulous) museums are free – well, there are a few privates, like the Transport Museum, that aren’t. Take in some Tex-Mex at the Texas Embassy, between Picadilly Circus and Trafalgar Square (musts), or sweep up some Wagamama’s noodles before going to the Tower – write ahead of time and see the rad “Ceremony of the Keys” – free! Covent Garden market (Saturdays, pretty artsy things), the Portabello Road market (Saturdays, stuff and randoms), the many many many theaters… There’s so much to love about London. Go.

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