• Browse Travel Reviews

Great Eat: De’ Coltelli, Pisa, Italy

Posted on February 8, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

Of course, you’re in Italy and you’re eating gelato. It’s pretty unavoidable, and, when it’s hot, everybody – locals, tourists, etc. – is eating it. While I didn’t get to Pisa (of the Leaning Tower fame) the first time I visited Italy, I have to say it’s an Italian town worth checking out – it’s darker, duskier, and far more romantic than its neighbor (by a 30 minute train ride), Florence (Firenze). And, while you’re in Pisa, strolling down the banks of the ancient Arno, the gelato idea sounds more and more appealing. So stop in at Gelateria De Coltelli’s, conveniently located near the Ponte di Mezzo (big bridge you’ll definitely cross when walking ’round Pisa). Primary reasons to try De Cotltelli’s: (a) I could read some of the menu in my not-superb Italian – think simple, fresh, and natural ingredients like ice, cream, sugar, honey, etc., but in an artisan, passed-down-through-Sicilian-heritage way. (b) there was a crowd of local folks of all ages, all smiling and laughing. (c) the people working there didn’t speak much English. I figured this was a good spot, and the gelato was phenomenal. They have all sorts of blended flavors, with coffee and cream and ricotta mixed in, and all of their fruit flavors – pear, banana, strawberry – were made right from the fruits they’re named after. You don’t stay inside and eat, though the reddish interior is chic; the best part of the whole experience is where you eat your ice cream – sitting up on the giant concrete walls that overlook the Arno. It’s a great experience; check it out!

Filed under: Europe, Great Eats | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

Florence, Italy

Posted on October 6, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

Firenze! Oh, vibrant Florence; it’s the only place where I’ve seen downright merriment propelling a late-night protest, where the people marching through the streets sang the city’s unofficial anthem, “Bella Ciao” while waving flags and drinking wine.  The Florentines are a proud, vibrant, and exhuberant bunch, and I suppose growing up in the cradle of art, the birthplace of the Italian language (Dante was a Florentine, after all, so when he chose the vernacular dialect to write the Inferno he used his home city’s slang), and, well, the whole birthplace of the Renaissance. You have to go to the Uffizi, if for no other reason than to see the little angel-playing-guitar painting (Rosso il Fiorentino’s “Musical Angel,” if you must know), nevermind the Bottecelli’s, da Vinci’s, Michelangelo’s,  etc. And marvel at Michelangelo’s David at La Galleria dell’Accademia; go all out and visit Donatello’s version at the Bargello while you’re “arting.” There are so many wonderful museums in Florence, and you should definitley get to a few, but it’s worth getting out into the city as well, as it’s architecture and layout are a work of art in themselves. The Duomo is the center to the city, and if you get lost, just ask “dove duomo?” (doe-vay) and you’ll get pointed in the right direction; atop the Duomo are great views of the city, but a hillside hike will afford a quieter panorama.
You’re guarunteed a good time as you prowl around the Medici compound, and touring their home is very worthwhile; you must see Michelangelo’s intended grave marker, “Dusk and Dawn” at Basilica di San Lorenzo, which is housed in a chapel where Michelangelo stayed while in exile, and some of his pencil sketches on the walls are still preserved; the tension and vitality of art in Florence can be seen, metaphorically, in the fever in these harried sketches. Via de’ Cerretani and Piazza della Signoria were some of my favorite parts of the city, but there are plenty winding streets and piazzas to keep you entertained. Wind around the Arno and grab some good leather, or just roam around the city taking in the buzz of the city. Check out Santa Croce for handmade (and well-priced) leather goods, and a look inside the Baptistry – untouched by the reformation – and notice that Jesus always shuns with his left hand in Italian art. Now learn that “left” in Italian is sinistra, i.e., the “sinister.” This language insight is also a cultural one; even if you visit the Serial Killer Museum (bizarre) you will feel the creative energy of Florence. Take it in, ask someone to teach you the song (they will), sample the house wines and gorge on the food -oh! the food! – and perhaps a little of Florence’s magic dust will fall on you.

Filed under: Europe | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

JR: Bled, Slovenia

Posted on September 13, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

There is something almost incomprehensible about sitting on a park bench, looking out over a green lake pebbled by a slight breeze at a castle twice as old as your country. As the morning sun echoes off mossy stones, you see into the past and realize the great Hapsburg ruling dynasty of Europe vacationed here. Yes, Hapsburgs drank, cried, laughed, and ruled their way into oblivion while your ancestors carved a raw wilderness into The New World. As the bass swirl in the lake and Slovene citizens walk to work around you, pine trees like you’ve never seen before climb up the Julian Alps to reach the snow that never exists in May where you live. You notice the houses made of tile and stone on the opposite shore of glacial Lake Bled, beyond the castle, and you wonder what the people behind the yellow, green, beige, and pearl colored walls might think if they noticed you on this bench wearing a shirt that reads “I’m an American.” Everywhere the smell of expresso brewing, the taste of vanilla-and-cream pastry called kremna rezina, the roar of motor bikes, the playfulness of gaudy fishing boats and old men mending nets, the laughter of small children tied to their parents wrists and bouncing like helium balloons along the crowded sidewalk around the lake remind you that these good people, who have exercised a Jobian patience and resilience in the face of Nazi occupation and the internecine savagery that inflamed the Balkans when Yugoslavia split apart, are happy you came to visit. If you’re so inclined you may go horseback riding, hiking, or take a rowboat to the small island in the middle of the lake and ring the bell at Assumption of Mary Church for good luck. A more laid back idea might be to enter the town of Bled proper and gamble at one of the small casinos or enjoy a fine lunch lakeside at the five-star Grand Toplice Hotel and afterward take a horse and buggy ride or relax in the thermal-spring heated pool. The lake is situated in the northwestern corner of Slovenia forty-five kilometres from both the Italian and the Austrian borders. There are regular bus routes from most central European cities and English is spoken everywhere. Currency in Slovenia has been the Euro since 2007 and prices are very reasonable in comparsion to other European resort areas.

Juror #3/Jim McGarrah :: Click here to view juror photos

Filed under: Eastern Europe, Europe | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

LR: Boston, MA

Posted on August 10, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

Ok, so this is more of an insiders guide to Boston. I have lived here for 10 years, and every summer I see the tourists milling through the city, looking at all of the things the guidebooks tell you to, because of their historical value. I won’t dissuade you from doing any of those things, in fact, they ARE so important to our nation’s history. However, what I offer you in this review is an alternative to tourism.

First of all, if you want to eat at the best restaurants in Boston, go to the South End. A derelict, forgotten neighborhood for years, South End was recently infused with fresh life from the fabulous gays who moved in, refurbished the brownstones and opened up businesses. Now, it has become the place that the true Bostonians go when they want be seen AND have a night out with friends or a loved one. There are too many amazing restaurants to list, so check with Boston Magazine or The Improper Bostonian for some ideas.

Back Bay is kind of a drag, even though that is where most of the hotels are and the two high end shopping malls. I do, however, really love the Boston Public Library (gorgeous) and there are two beautiful churches across the street. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, in the plaza, they have an open market for local farmers, etc.

Newbury Street is very famous as Boston’s hub of shopping. A little secret… starting from Boston Common/Arlington St, all of the cross streets off of Newbury are alphabetized. Many Bostonians don’t even realize that! The beginning of Newbury A-C are the most high end shops, by the time you get down to the end (Mass Ave) the shops become a lot more affordable. On a beautiful day, it is THE place to be. (Note there are a lot of restaurants with outdoor seating, but most aren’t that great- so go for lunch, not dinner). The North End is Boston’s Italian neighborhood. Well, at least it used to be. There are still plenty of Italian restaurants, but it feels a lot more gentrified now. Very few are authentic, but they are all good! Mike’s Pastry is famous, when you get inside make your way to the front; there is no line, but the tourists always queue up. Cafe Vittoria next door has the best cappuccino I’ve ever had.

Nobody really hangs out downtown unless they are working, so don’t bother.

One tourist thing I highly recommend is the Duck Tour. It’s not cheap, but it’s so much fun! I go every time my family comes to visit, and I always learn something new. So, DO the tourist thing, because it’s fun and interesting, but also keep in mind my insider’s knowledge!

Juror #5, Dana

Filed under: North America | Tagged: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a Comment »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 264 other followers