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2013′s TravelByJury.com Valentine: Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam


This year’s travel love note goes out to the lovely city of Hue, Vietnam. Humming happily by the Perfume River, Hue (pronounced “Wh-ay”) remains one of the most fascinating and friendly places I’ve ever visited. Hue, in August, is HOT, like sweat all the time hot, but I liked it. A visit to Hue means that you’ll be practicing the crossing-the-street skills you earned in Hanoi, or any other part of Vietnam (or more rural parts of China) – steady as you go, make eye contact, don’t run. Hue is third (following Hanoi and Saigon) in terms of motorbike volume. There are so many fascinating aspects to Hue – it is the old imperial city of Vietnam, so there’s the obligatory visit to the Emperor’s Purple Palace and the Citadel. You can easily walk the city, but if you get too hot or tired you can always have a friendly haggle with a taxi driver – I personally felt the cyclos were exploitative, so I dodged those. As one juror posted earlier here on TravelByJury.com, the Imperial Tombs – especially the Ming Mang tomb – are not to be missed and can be arranged to suit a variety of travel needs – you can go by boat, by car, by bike – whatever! Visiting the pagodas are also a treat – the Thien Mu Pagoda is a symbol of Hue, and easily reached by bus, taxi, or motorbike. It’s the tallest in Vietnam, but also very symbolic of the Buddhist presence in Hue; this is the pagoda that hosted the monks who emmollated themselves in protest of occupied Vietnam in 1963. I personally enjoyed the Tu Hieu pagoda, where I witnessed Buddhist monks chanting in a serene forest; Tu Hieu is also known as Thich Nhat Hanh’s first place of study, and it’s a truly serene experience. Similarly awesome is the Temple of Literature, which contains so many steeles, Buddhas, and gazing pools that a visitor could easily become entranced there for hours. Of course, right up the street from the Temple of Literature is the Ho Chi Minh Museum, which you should definitley check out, ’cause Uncle Ho was a fascinating guy. The mausoleaum is optional (he didn’t want the Stalin treatment) but non-optional is stopping by the Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, which not only serves divine teas and desserts but also sells beautiful handcrafts. The proceeds go toward heart surgeries for the poor in Vietnam. To keep your visit soulful, don’t skip out on eating a FABULOUS meal at KOTO, a restaurant that trains and educates its staff, who are previously underpriveleged youth, in the arts of business, cooking, service industry training, and, of course, learning English. Of course, you’ll find plenty of great eats in Hue – just walk in and enjoy the obligatory lime juice:) Hue is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I send this Valentine out for all travelers, hoping that they get to experience this gem of a destination with as much joy as I did. Hip Hip Hurrah for Hue!

Great Eat: Hammerhead’s, Louisville KY

One of Louisville locals’ favorite restaurants is Hammerheads, if the lines out the door tell you anything. Tucked away in Germantown, this local dive has been an eatery of some sort for the better part of the city’s 20th century, and its local incarnation as a gastropub has made the spot hot again. I, a local, go for the pretzel buns on my elk burger – the meat is local and the pretzel buns are made on site, and it is a delicious pleasure. The house hummus isn’t bad, and the baked beans are outta sight. The shrimp and grits leave this Carolina native a bit unenthused, but the sweet potato fries in duck fat make up for that particular slight. I have not been brave enough to try the bacon brownie, but I see it ordered every time I’ve been to Hammerheads, so it can’t be too awful. The Garcia Burger – a veggie burger made with sun-dried tomato and shittake mushrooms (and, somehow, falafel) – remains one of my fellow Louisvillians’ sole reason for repeatedly returning to Hammerheads. The beer list boasts a lot of local and craft beers, but you can also get a can of PBR. Make sure to get to Hammerheads early, or you’ll be waiting in line with a lot of local, hungry people.

Great Eat: Alligator Soul, Savannah GA

Yeah yeah, you can get deep-butter-fried anything from the Paula Deen ilk that runs through the beautiful southern thrill of a town that is Savannah, Georgia, but you want something really really good, right? Something that’ll make you put down your phone and the rest of the baggage you’re carrying and go “UMMM… That is SO good.” You with me? Then take down this address – 114 Barnard St. You’ll see the alligator, you go down the steps – and now you’re in a basement. A delicious, historic basement, and you’re at Alligator Soul, one of Savannah’s best restaurants. If you’re visiting during a month that has an “R” in it, you must – you simply must – order the oysters (Oysters Bienville, to be precise). You might get them with a mix of andouille sausage on top of them, but they will be briny, large, and delicious. The friendly bartender will recommend a house cocktail for you, or mix up whatever you desire (Death’s Door Organic liquor is served here with a liberal hand) and the wine list is exquisite. The folks sitting next to me at the bar recommended both the elk and the lamb, and their “Financier” dessert included the words “buttermilk gelato.” I personally got my sugar rush from the Banana Beignets, which, topped with a drizzling of home-made, organic chocolate syrup, sent me to heaven. The restaurant is only open for dinner and it’s best to book ahead (the use OpenTable.com), and the chefs use only local produce, meat and, of course, in-season seafood, so the flavors are big and beautiful. If you go to Alligator Soul, you will not be disappointed (well, my waiter was a little flighty but he had a few tables to deal with, and I wasn’t in any hurry). It’s not on the cheap side of good eats in Savannah, but isn’t it time you took yourself out for a real treat? Com’on, grab a chair and tuck in!

Gobble ‘Til You Wobble

Happy Thanksgiving to our United States readers from TravelByJury.com! Check out all of our great eats as you gear up to gobble ’til you wobble! We’re thankful for you – so keep the reviews coming!

the Cart, Hanoi, Vietnam
Gracie’s, Salt Lake City, Utah
Linger Lodge, Bradenton, Florida
The Wine Shop, Charlotte, North Carolina
Harvest, Louisville, Kentucky
Bison Witches Bar & Deli, Tempe, Arizona
Pachapapa, Cusco, Peru
Ladles, Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina
Loose Meat Sandwiches in Sioux City, Iowa
Granja Heidi, Cusco, Peru
Jack’s Cafe, Cusco, Peru
Caffe Pomodoro, Panama City, Panama
Desserts of Louisville, Kentucky
Gilpin’s Sandwiches, Cincinnati, Ohio
Cafe Campanilla, Madrid, Spain
Dickadee’s Deli, Charlotte, North Carolina
La Bombeta, Barcelona, Spain
Medjool, San Francisco, California
De’Coltelli, Pisa, Italy
Kashmir, Louisville, Kentucky
Barley’s Taproom, Asheville, North Carolina
Maggie Jones; London, England
The General Greene & Cake Man Raven; Brooklyn, New York, USA
La Paella De La Reina; Madrid, Spain
Brasserie Esemeralla; Paris, France
Black Bear Bakery; St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Murphy’s Ice Cream; Dingle, Ireland
Ristorante Zeppelin; Orvieto, Italy
Uto Klum; Üetliberg, Switzerland
Seviche, Louisville, Kentucky, USA
Unnammed; Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama
Three Carrots Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
White Horse Tavern; New York City, New York, USA
The Duke of York; London, England

Great Eat: Gracie’s, Salt Lake City UT

Famed as one of the only “gastropubs” in Salt Lake City, Gracie’s has the inner decor of a sport’s bar but the menu of a boutique restaurant. Your cheeseburger might be made of Kobe beef and contain Gruyère cheese instead of cheddar, and your fries might be cooked in duck fat, but, otherwise, the menu is basically full of old favorites done up in some slightly different ingredients. The bar area on the bottom floor is a jolly area, but the upstairs area, complete with pool tables, has the high-backed bench seats you see in good pubs and any Irish bar. The service is prompt and the folks are friendly, and for an in-land restaurant, the Ahi Tuna roll was one of the best I’ve ever had. Ribs, pho, and spumoni all share the same menu at Gracie’s, which is a short walk from Temple Square; next time you’re in SLC, you won’t be disappointed if you tuck in a bite at there.

Great Eat: Bison Witches Bar & Deli, Tempe, AZ

Bison Witches Bar & Deli is certainly a worthwhile sandwich treat to try if you’re out in the Tempe or greater Phoenix, Arizona area. Not only are there a selection of delectable sandwiches for every palate – the delicious Cally has turkey, avocado slices, cream cheese, alfalfa sprouts, and mayo on a croissant, while the Beef & Brie sports Brie cheese melted over smoked beef with tomatoes, alfalfa sprouts, and Russian honey mustard, just to serve as examples – but the restaurant also has salads and soups. You can totally combine a half sandwich with soup or salad (the cream of broccoli is lovely), and the conveniently located (right in the “Mills” area of town around Arizona State University – you can spot the “A” on the nearby mountain if you opt to eat on the sunny patio) spot is a great place to start your roam around a hip area of Tempe. The homemade potato chips are wonderful, and the beer list has everything from your average Budweiser domestic to high gravity microbrews and yummy ciders. Tuck in a good lunch at Bison Witches (and say hi to the friendly staff) next time you’re in Tempe – you won’t be disappointed!

Great Eat: P & G Restaurant & Bar, New Orleans, LA

Stumbling into the little hole in the wall that is the P&G Restaurant and Bar in the Warehouse District of New Orleans, Louisiana was a great idea. This small restaurant has everything you could want in terms of New Orleans staple fare: po boys, creole-spiced seafood, rice & beans, and excellent salads. The woman who takes your order might call you darlin’ or honey, and the chef’s name is “Miss” So-and-So – very authentically southern. While the restaurant might be small, do note the Zagat sign outside; you won’t be the first patron to enjoy these home-cooked meals, but you might be one of the few folks who venture outside of the more popular French Quarter to get some good grub. Grab a chair and a Coke (they do have beer, like everywhere else in New Orleans) and people-watch during the week, as P&G’s is located right off of Baronne Street, where many of the city’s white collar folks work and play. Even something as simple as a shrimp salad will be delectable, with itty-bitty spiced shrimp tossed on a bed of cucumbers, lettuce, and baby tomatoes with the house’s special home-made dressings. So give P&G a try next time you’re in the Big Easy!

345 Baronne Street | New Orleans, LA 70112-1628 | (504) 525-9678

JR/Great Eat: LIMO Cocina Peruana & Pisco Bar; Cusco, Peru

On the northern side of Plaza de Armas in the middle of Cuzco, Peru, LIMO offers a variety of modern dishes featuring traditional and local ingredients. I sampled a wonderful ceviche before enjoying an entree of grilled alpaca skewers with polenta. The sweet potato with the ceviche was incredible. Very very tasty. My companions both had delicious dishes as well, including a night-specialty orzo.

The restaurant also features a variety of cocktails, including several Pisco-based drinks. The drinks are an experience in themselves, flavorful and yet still with a bit of kick to them. The waiter spoke fluent English and was able to guide us through each course. The balcony view over the Plaza was nice too. The cost was higher than many other restaurants in Cuzco, but the atmosphere and knowledgable staff made up for that — and it still wasn’t break-the-bank expensive.

Juror #14

Gobble ’til You Wobble

Happy Thanksgiving to our United States readers from TravelByJury.com! Check out all of our great eats as you gear up to gobble ’til you wobble! We’re thankful for you – so keep the reviews coming!

Pachapapa, Cusco, Peru
Ladles, Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina
Loose Meat Sandwiches in Sioux City, Iowa
Granja Heidi, Cusco, Peru
Jack’s Cafe, Cusco, Peru
Caffe Pomodoro, Panama City, Panama
Desserts of Louisville, Kentucky
Gilpin’s Sandwiches, Cincinnati, Ohio
Cafe Campanilla, Madrid, Spain
Dickadee’s Deli, Charlotte, North Carolina
La Bombeta, Barcelona, Spain
Medjool, San Francisco, California
De’Coltelli, Pisa, Italy
Kashmir, Louisville, Kentucky
Barley’s Taproom, Asheville, North Carolina
Maggie Jones; London, England
The General Greene & Cake Man Raven; Brooklyn, New York, USA
La Paella De La Reina; Madrid, Spain
Brasserie Esemeralla; Paris, France
Black Bear Bakery; St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Murphy’s Ice Cream; Dingle, Ireland
Ristorante Zeppelin; Orvieto, Italy
Uto Klum; Üetliberg, Switzerland
Seviche, Louisville, Kentucky, USA
Unnammed; Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama
Three Carrots Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
White Horse Tavern; New York City, New York, USA
The Duke of York; London, England

JR: Sioux City, Iowa

Many people travel through Iowa on route to Mt. Rushmore, a great national park for any eyes to behold, or on the way to Sturgis Biker Week, for the biker in us all. Sioux City, Iowa is just south of the South Dakota border and a great place to visit. Not only does the Missouri River run through the city, separating it from Nebraska, but it is also full of rolling hills; the Sioux City area is home to the beautiful Loess Hills. Now that may not be enough reason for you to travel to Sioux City just to gaze upon their beauty, but if you are traveling along Interstate 29, give it a try. And while you are in Sioux City you must get a taste of Midwest living. The loose meat sandwich is big in these parts. And Sioux City has it’s own brand of goodness. But with two competing loose meat classic restaurants there is a challenge a waitin”! Tastee’s In and Out and Miles Inn both offer their own version of the loose meat sandwich. And you guessed it, the two restaurants are only a few blocks from each other. Tastee’s (sandwich of the same name) offers you an old time drive thru feeling. The family can go and sit at the picnic tables and enjoy a delicious round of sandwich (and the best onion chips ever made). While Mile’s Inn provides the Charlie Boy loose meat sandwich in a bar setting. It is paired with a Schooner, a large ice cold beer in a frozen mug. Miles’ sign reads Coldest beer in town! A Facebook page is even dedicated to the rivalry over which place is the best. Stop in and make your own opinion! I’ll save mine!

Juror #1

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