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2013′s TravelByJury.com Valentine: Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam


This year’s travel love note goes out to the lovely city of Hue, Vietnam. Humming happily by the Perfume River, Hue (pronounced “Wh-ay”) remains one of the most fascinating and friendly places I’ve ever visited. Hue, in August, is HOT, like sweat all the time hot, but I liked it. A visit to Hue means that you’ll be practicing the crossing-the-street skills you earned in Hanoi, or any other part of Vietnam (or more rural parts of China) – steady as you go, make eye contact, don’t run. Hue is third (following Hanoi and Saigon) in terms of motorbike volume. There are so many fascinating aspects to Hue – it is the old imperial city of Vietnam, so there’s the obligatory visit to the Emperor’s Purple Palace and the Citadel. You can easily walk the city, but if you get too hot or tired you can always have a friendly haggle with a taxi driver – I personally felt the cyclos were exploitative, so I dodged those. As one juror posted earlier here on TravelByJury.com, the Imperial Tombs – especially the Ming Mang tomb – are not to be missed and can be arranged to suit a variety of travel needs – you can go by boat, by car, by bike – whatever! Visiting the pagodas are also a treat – the Thien Mu Pagoda is a symbol of Hue, and easily reached by bus, taxi, or motorbike. It’s the tallest in Vietnam, but also very symbolic of the Buddhist presence in Hue; this is the pagoda that hosted the monks who emmollated themselves in protest of occupied Vietnam in 1963. I personally enjoyed the Tu Hieu pagoda, where I witnessed Buddhist monks chanting in a serene forest; Tu Hieu is also known as Thich Nhat Hanh’s first place of study, and it’s a truly serene experience. Similarly awesome is the Temple of Literature, which contains so many steeles, Buddhas, and gazing pools that a visitor could easily become entranced there for hours. Of course, right up the street from the Temple of Literature is the Ho Chi Minh Museum, which you should definitley check out, ’cause Uncle Ho was a fascinating guy. The mausoleaum is optional (he didn’t want the Stalin treatment) but non-optional is stopping by the Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, which not only serves divine teas and desserts but also sells beautiful handcrafts. The proceeds go toward heart surgeries for the poor in Vietnam. To keep your visit soulful, don’t skip out on eating a FABULOUS meal at KOTO, a restaurant that trains and educates its staff, who are previously underpriveleged youth, in the arts of business, cooking, service industry training, and, of course, learning English. Of course, you’ll find plenty of great eats in Hue – just walk in and enjoy the obligatory lime juice:) Hue is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I send this Valentine out for all travelers, hoping that they get to experience this gem of a destination with as much joy as I did. Hip Hip Hurrah for Hue!

Great Eat: the Cart; Hanoi, Vietnam

the Cart” is just a tiny little restaurant (18 Ấu Triệu) tucked in a corner near St. Joseph’s Cathedral in marvelous Hanoi. This area of town – the Old Quarter – has endless sights and delights to enchant you with, but the simplicity of Cart only adds to its allure. It’s really just a simple sandwich and coffee shop, but the coffee is extremely well brewed, the sandwiches made on such fresh bread – I had a better BLT in Hanoi than I’ve had in the US – and the upstairs sitting area, complete with a mural of a tree and some happy art and photos, was like your own cozy living room. You can get a Cornish pasty, you can get a omlette-type arrangement of meats and (or just) veggies on a baguette, but if you order nothing else at the Cart, you must try the Banana Lassie (or any of the fruit juice blends) – a simple mix of yogurt, bananas, and almond milk that will tame your tummy after wilder adventures in Vietnamese street food. Go to the Cart to relax, and you’ll be guaranteed to enjoy.

Maribor, Slovenia

Nestled in the Pohorje Mountains in the mysterious Styria region of Europe is the charming city of Maribor, Slovenia. It’s becoming a semi-popular European skiing and winter-sports destination, and the city, which is home to a the University of Maribor and thus a large academic and student population, is rife with fun things to do outdoors in the spring and summer as well. The first things you’re likely to do when in Maribor, however, is head straight to the Old Vine, the Guinness-certified oldest producing wine vine in the world. The vine, as well as its accompanying museum/store, are worth a stop, but its the gentle amble along the Drava in Lent, Maribor’s “old town,” that will be the most enjoyable. Stop by the market in Lent and pick up pumpkin seed oil (or just browse trinkets or fresh fruit, veggies, and jams), as well as take in the popular landmarks such as the Judgement Tower and Water Tower. Maribor can be enjoyed in its pedestrianized squares, Slomškov Trg and Glanvi Trg in particular are good for tucking in a drink outside and people watching, and the city is friendly and warm. While locals often drive to nearby Graz, Austria (about a 45 minute drive) to shop, there’s a lot of nice stores in Maribor, especially near the castle in Grajski Trg. The University and Slovene National Theater keep the city steady on classic and cutting edge arts and culture, and the city’s various monuments – relating to historical subjects that are a testament to the age of the city: the Plague,and, Communist occupation, the Second World War – are worth a look, especially the bizarre National Liberation Memorial. The cathedral and castle are lovely, and the view from Piramida Hill in Mestni Park. Maribor is easy to get around, and if you do grab a cab, it’ll be a cheap and quick ride. Maribor is a beautiful introduction to Slovenia and a wonderfully charming European city that deserves your visit – but do note that you’ll be arriving by car or train, as Maribor doesn’t have an airport (most people take a train from Ljubljana or Graz’s airports; the train from Graz can take a bit if you don’t time it right).

Great Eat: Granja Heidi; San Blas/Cusco, Peru

One of the most soothing places to go in Cusco is the Granja Heidi, a popular restaurant in the San Blas neighborhood of Cusco, Peru. If you picked up a travel guide about Cusco or hunted around online for good eats there, you probably saw a good write-up for the Granja Heidi: believe it. “Heidi’s Farm” (translation) boasts beautiful meals whose ingredients come fresh from the owner’s farm, so items like the “Rise, Lazarus!” leek soup (with carrots, celery, and other aromatics) will hit the spot and make you feel pretty darn good after you’ve been working your digestive system in the high Andean altitude. Check out their home-made granola that is simply the best bran I’ve ever had (mixed in a fruit salad, mm!) Try one of the restaurant’s various teas (soothing, warm, and utterly fantastic) or one of their made-to-order crepes, the latter of which meets an interesting/amusing Spanish-English translation on the menu. If you’re a breakfast-for-dinner person, Granja Heidi is the spot for you. Nothing on their menu is bad, and the place gets pretty packed as the prime dinner hours draw near, though you can call ahead and reserve a table and the owners will happily oblige. Granja Heidi is located to the left of Cuesta San Blas (the street that nearly runs into the front of Templo de San Blas) if you’re going up; they don’t take credit cards, but they might change some of your larger denomination soles for you – nice, nice people, and if you’re looking for fellow European travelers, check here, as we saw plenty of them in the cheery and tasty Granja Heidi.

JR/Great Eat: Jack’s Cafe; Cusco, Peru

About two blocks north of Plaza de Armas in Cuzco, Peru is one of the best breakfast spots I’ve ever eaten at: Jack’s Cafe. The food is so fresh, everything is homemade, and the fresh fruit smoothies are great for getting a nice dose of morning energy and for aiding any lasting effects from the high altitude. Everything on the menu seems good – we had six meals there (some ingredients: avocado, bruschetta, eggs and omelets, panini sandwiches, etc.) and were never disappointed – and the servers are friendly and mostly bilingual. A good first meal when you get into town, if you can get in the door during peak hours.

Juror #14

LR: Sweet Treats for Summer in Louisville, KY

One “Great Eat” review of all the delectable cool summer sweets available in Louisville, KY wouldn’t be adequate; there are so many great spots in Possibility City to grab an icy treat! For those who just want straight up ice cream, there’s no better place to go than Graeter’s. Homemade ice cream in varying flavors (as well as a rotation of sought-after seasonals, like the Buckeye Blitz and Cherry Chip) can be whipped into a sundae (there are several signature ones) or a milkshake, or enjoy your ice cream on a waffle cone. Grater’s also has home-made fudge and ice cream cakes, if you’re not already counting the calories you just added to your waistline. If healthier fare is more your speed, check out Sweet CeCe’s, where you pick a frozen yogurt flavor and then top it off with a multitude of fresh and fun toppings, like fruit (oranges, strawberries, pineapple, blueberries) or something more sinful (hot fudge, chopped up Reese’s, brownie bits, pulverized graham crackers, Andes mints, Skittles, and M’n'Ms are some of the favorites); your special concoction is weighed for the price. Even healthier hot-weather treats can be found right across the street (corner of Bardstown and Eastern Parkway) at Ce Fiore (try the acai berry natural yogurt with oat bits mixed in, mmm!) or Sweet Surrender (gluten-free and no-sugar added vegan chocolate cake!). As you sweat your way through summer, don’t forget to grab a tasty treat once in a while to satisfy your need for cool sweets in good ol’ Louisville, Kentucky.

LR/Great Eat: Proof on Main, Louisville KY

One of the funny things about living in a decent-sized city is that often you seek out your own little hidden favorite eats and bars, neglecting the ones always raved about by visitors to your city. But there’s no excuse to ignore Proof on Main, one of Louisville’s most highly-touted bars and eateries. The Southern-Italian-Spanish menu is innovative and boasts tons of local and fresh ingredients, but it’ll put a hole in your wallet (mains from $18, tasting platters from $17 with a wide selection of meats and cheeses that you’ll not find anywhere – think buffalo carpaccio or pecorino ginepro – artisan sheep cheese). The main reason to go to Proof, however, is to enjoy the atmosphere and take in one of the spot’s signature mixed drinks, like the robust “Strapping Lad” or the sweet “Barbarella.” Proof is also a hotel and art gallery (well, attached to 21c Hotel and Gallery, but it feels like one big establishment), which means you can grab a drink view tons of unique and interesting art and installation pieces. There are even wild pieces in the bathroom – the men’s room features a sort of two way mirror with a perpetual waterfall urinal! You can also interact with several of the cool installation pieces – my favorite is Camille Utterback & Romy Achituv’s “Text Rain” (by the elevators) where anyone can move and bat letters around as they fall from the ceiling. Proof on Main is a total gem in downtown Louisville – next time you’re in town, you gotta check it out!

Great Eat: De’ Coltelli, Pisa, Italy

Of course, you’re in Italy and you’re eating gelato. It’s pretty unavoidable, and, when it’s hot, everybody – locals, tourists, etc. – is eating it. While I didn’t get to Pisa (of the Leaning Tower fame) the first time I visited Italy, I have to say it’s an Italian town worth checking out – it’s darker, duskier, and far more romantic than its neighbor (by a 30 minute train ride), Florence (Firenze). And, while you’re in Pisa, strolling down the banks of the ancient Arno, the gelato idea sounds more and more appealing. So stop in at Gelateria De Coltelli’s, conveniently located near the Ponte di Mezzo (big bridge you’ll definitely cross when walking ’round Pisa). Primary reasons to try De Cotltelli’s: (a) I could read some of the menu in my not-superb Italian – think simple, fresh, and natural ingredients like ice, cream, sugar, honey, etc., but in an artisan, passed-down-through-Sicilian-heritage way. (b) there was a crowd of local folks of all ages, all smiling and laughing. (c) the people working there didn’t speak much English. I figured this was a good spot, and the gelato was phenomenal. They have all sorts of blended flavors, with coffee and cream and ricotta mixed in, and all of their fruit flavors – pear, banana, strawberry – were made right from the fruits they’re named after. You don’t stay inside and eat, though the reddish interior is chic; the best part of the whole experience is where you eat your ice cream – sitting up on the giant concrete walls that overlook the Arno. It’s a great experience; check it out!

Anderson, SC

Located across part of Lake Hartwell and off of I-85 south, Anderson, SC is a cute little town that might be worth your stopping by before a trip further south (say, to Atlanta) or a trip further north (say, Spartanburg or Asheville). Anderson’s got a great, authentic Irish pub (McGee’s) which hosts everything from live Irish music to local bands to local art shows for Clemson University and Anderson College students. Also check out The Fox Pub for good food. The re-vamped downtown area of Anderson has several cool spots to eat as well as some boutique shops; you can go all out and get yourself something Palmetto themed, as the state pride in South Carolina is rivaled only by Texas. Anderson’s Farmer’s Market is HUGE and is made up almost entirely of local vendors; go here during peach season and gorge, check out fresh corn and the like as well. If you’re traveling into Anderson via Clemson on Highway 76, check out roadside vendors – there’s a few that even display their fresh veggies and then leave, promoting faith in the honor system of your donations:) Timms Mill and the Old Stone Church are worth a visit for those interested in historical sites, and Broadway Lake and Sadlers Creek State Recreation Area offer great places to go explore outdoor sports, or maybe just for a quick dip in the cool Upstate waters. Of course, Anderson is often noted by Clemson alumni like me as “the place to go to get stuff,” as Anderson has a small mall and big chain stores and restaurants that wee Clemson doesn’t, and it’s also known to have more hotels available if you’re in town to see the Clemson Tigers play. Check out Anderson, SC, next time you’re passing through – you won’t have a bad time, it’s certain.

JR: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada

Vancouver, B.C. is a progressive and metropolitan city. As a part of the Pacific Northwest, this jewel is one of the largest cities in the area, and the largest in B.C. It’s easy to get around this city by foot, bus, or light rail (exact coin needed for buses). The downtown area, where I stayed, had a great big city feel with loads of high-end shopping. Good food also abounds in this area. Other areas not to be missed include historic Gastown, Stanley Park, Chinatown and Granville Island. Gastown boasts boutique shopping (Don’t miss Vancouver-based John Fluevog shoes), trendy locals, Canadian souvenir shops and the unique Steam Clock. Walk a few blocks south and you’ll get to W. Hastings which features a slightly Amsterdam-ish vibe with two head shops and a smoke-friendly cafe. But the best part of W. Hastings is great fabric shops, especially Dressew. Another must-see place is Stanley Park, which houses the Vancouver Aquarium. Go early because the crowds get heavy, especially on the weekends. You can pack a picnic to eat on the park grounds, or you can eat at the historic Stanley Park Grill, which is expensive but they serve local microbrews and delicious fries. Finally, do not miss the Granville Island Public Market. This indoor market serves the best baked goods, cheeses, meats, produce and prepared foods. It’s a great place to wander, snack, pick out souvenirs, and even picnic supplies. Hang out on the Island to visit the arts and crafts stores and good meals at restaurants, like Cat’s Social House. And with Vancouver’s bustling film industry, you might even get to catch a filming and spot a star. Vancouver is a wonderful place to visit and don’t let the talk of bad weather deter you.

Juror #2/Andalee

Vancouver Fun Facts Quiz

1. Vancouver has earned along its many nicknames, the name of :
A.Vanstock
B.Hong-couver
C.New Beijing

2. One of these opinions is definitely false. But the question is, which one?
A. Vancouver is probably the only place in the world where it is possible to ski, play golf
and go sailing, all in the same day
B. Canada owns the North Pole
C. Canada is the world’s second largest country by total area

3. Canada is believed to be the home of:
A. The Tooth-Fairy
B. Cindarella
C. Santa Claus

4. These tourists will have a hard time in Vancouver. Simply because there are bans in most
places, which prohibit:
A. Dinning with your pet
B. Smoking cigars
C. Flirting with waitresses

5. Vancouverites (people who live in Vancouver) “eat out” more than any other North
American city. Related or not, that makes them notorious for:
A.tipping well
B.consumming most wine glasses over a meal
C.skipping lunch

6. In the 1960′s in Vancouver was founded one of the world’s biggest and most active
organizations:
A.Earth Liberation Front
B.Greenpeace
C.PETA

7. Vancouver is one of the few North American cities with no:
A.old people
B.street gangs
C.downtown freeways

8. A certain iconic American musician would spend summers in Vancouver, where his granny
lived. Can you guess who?
A. Jimmi Hendrix
B. Bob Dylan
c. Elvis Presley

9. Injecting more than $1 billion dollars into the local economy, Vancouver has the largest

(in all Canada):
A. Film Industry
B. Airport
C. Fishing Industry

10. Which one of the following fine things listed below, simply cannnot be purchased from a
grocery store in Canada:
A. Alcohol
B. Condoms
C. Medicine

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