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2013′s TravelByJury.com Valentine: Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam

Thiên Mụ Pagoda, Hue, Vietnam


This year’s travel love note goes out to the lovely city of Hue, Vietnam. Humming happily by the Perfume River, Hue (pronounced “Wh-ay”) remains one of the most fascinating and friendly places I’ve ever visited. Hue, in August, is HOT, like sweat all the time hot, but I liked it. A visit to Hue means that you’ll be practicing the crossing-the-street skills you earned in Hanoi, or any other part of Vietnam (or more rural parts of China) – steady as you go, make eye contact, don’t run. Hue is third (following Hanoi and Saigon) in terms of motorbike volume. There are so many fascinating aspects to Hue – it is the old imperial city of Vietnam, so there’s the obligatory visit to the Emperor’s Purple Palace and the Citadel. You can easily walk the city, but if you get too hot or tired you can always have a friendly haggle with a taxi driver – I personally felt the cyclos were exploitative, so I dodged those. As one juror posted earlier here on TravelByJury.com, the Imperial Tombs – especially the Ming Mang tomb – are not to be missed and can be arranged to suit a variety of travel needs – you can go by boat, by car, by bike – whatever! Visiting the pagodas are also a treat – the Thien Mu Pagoda is a symbol of Hue, and easily reached by bus, taxi, or motorbike. It’s the tallest in Vietnam, but also very symbolic of the Buddhist presence in Hue; this is the pagoda that hosted the monks who emmollated themselves in protest of occupied Vietnam in 1963. I personally enjoyed the Tu Hieu pagoda, where I witnessed Buddhist monks chanting in a serene forest; Tu Hieu is also known as Thich Nhat Hanh’s first place of study, and it’s a truly serene experience. Similarly awesome is the Temple of Literature, which contains so many steeles, Buddhas, and gazing pools that a visitor could easily become entranced there for hours. Of course, right up the street from the Temple of Literature is the Ho Chi Minh Museum, which you should definitley check out, ’cause Uncle Ho was a fascinating guy. The mausoleaum is optional (he didn’t want the Stalin treatment) but non-optional is stopping by the Healing the Wounded Heart Shop, which not only serves divine teas and desserts but also sells beautiful handcrafts. The proceeds go toward heart surgeries for the poor in Vietnam. To keep your visit soulful, don’t skip out on eating a FABULOUS meal at KOTO, a restaurant that trains and educates its staff, who are previously underpriveleged youth, in the arts of business, cooking, service industry training, and, of course, learning English. Of course, you’ll find plenty of great eats in Hue – just walk in and enjoy the obligatory lime juice:) Hue is one of my favorite places on Earth, and I send this Valentine out for all travelers, hoping that they get to experience this gem of a destination with as much joy as I did. Hip Hip Hurrah for Hue!

Hanoi, Vietnam

Crossing the street in most Vietnamese cities is like a live-action game of Frogger – once two motorbikes pass you on either side of you, you will know you have “made it” in Vietnam. Hanoi, the country’s second biggest city (after Saigon) and largest city in the north, is a veritable feast for the senses. Watch the locals drink bia hoi (local, daily-brewed beer) in the evenings or tuck in their morning pho as you explore the awesome city of Hanoi, which you can do quite easily on foot. Or take a xe om (motorcycle) ride and marvel at the mystery that is Vietnamese traffic patterns. You can’t miss the Citadel, the Forbidden City (the “Forbidden Purple City,” heavily bombed during the Vietnam War, is now being renovated as you tour), or the Hoan Kiem Lake area, home to one of the best parks in the city as well as the Ngoc Son Temple, an un-missable site that will explain the omnipresence of turtle regalia in the rest of the city. Buy your tickets early if you’re trying to catch the regional treasure that is the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, and allow yourself plenty of time to soak up the peaceful Temple of Literature, a startling oasis in the middle of the city. There are several museums in Hanoi, but the Ho Chi Minh Musuem is the most surreal and fun, though the Bao Tang Dan Toc Hoc (Ethnology Museum) is often cited as the city’s best museum, though it’s a bit of trek to get there (don’t worry, everyone on the bus will help you find it). The Hoa Lo Prison is an informative exhibit detailing the trials and tribulations that French colonialism brought upon the Vietnamese people, but it’s not too descriptive of the time John McCain spent there, when it was known as the “Hanoi Hilton” POW camp. You will not be at a loss for food in Hanoi, as it is one of the most exciting places to eat this writer has ever been. Don’t miss the old French Quarter, dominated by pedi-cabs asking you where you want to go and the Catholic relic of St. Joseph’s Cathedral (eat at The Cart Au Trieu, a locally-run, non-profit-assisting spot where you can down a lassie, a fruit-yogurt smoothie that takes the heat out of Hanoi’s hot streets). Hanoi is a fabulous, vibrant city filled with friendly people and the constant buzz of motorbikes. You might consider prolonging your visit – Hanoi is a spot where a traveler could spend a long and eventful visit.

JR: Charleston, SC

Once upon a time there was a land near the Cooper River in South Carolina, where people wore seersucker and said hello to everyone as they walked down the street…. Wait, that’s Charleston, SC today; what it used to be was a trade area, a port, a Civil War battle area, and a cultural epicenter of the southeast. Chucktown (don’t buy the t-shirt) is still that today, and it’s history, beaches, architecture, food, and local art draw many tourists and visitors to it every year. As for history, the Morris Island lighthouse (and nature sanctuary), Ft. Sumpter, the Hunley submarine and the USS Yorktown can fill up a historic tour itinerary, but it’s worth taking in King Street and Meeting Street for more historical sites, like the Slave Market and Customs House, along with good restaurants, souvenier-type stuff and the kitschy old market; check out Tommy Condon’s watermark that shows the height of the flooding of Hurricane Hugo. As for other bars, the Blind Tiger and the Silver Dollar are great bets for a good time.  Get all old South and visit the Citadel or the Confederate Museum, if you’re in the mood, but the Charles Towne Landing Historical Park works for every visitor. If you’re heading to the beach, Folly Beach on James Island is low-key and favored by the younger crowd, including class-cutting College of Charleston (CofC) and Medical University of South Carolina (MUSC) students – check out Melvin’s Burgers. More expensive lodgings (and thus a quieter area of town) can be found at the Isle of Palms. Strolling aimlessly through Charleston results in checking out its beautiful architecture – Rainbow Row is a popular spot due to the multi-colored antebellum homes, and the Battery area shows how gorgeous million dollar beach-front property can be – check out the house with the stone pigs guarding the gate; that’d be the founder of supermarket chain Piggly Wiggly’s home.   Nature-seekers can enjoy a leisurely promenade along the Charleston Waterfront Park, which affords great views of the Ravenell Bridge (or the Cooper River Bridge, but everyone in Charleston knows that name  refers to the old rickety bridge that the Ravenell replaced in 2005). As for eats, Kickin’ Chicken and the renowned Cosmic Dog are surefire bets for fun, and locals go to Bowen’s Island for good seafood.  There’s a great deal of art museums and antique stores in Charleston, but the Piccolo Spoleto festival is unmissable for art lovers. Enjoy the plough mud, friendly people, and un-ending array of live oaks with hanging moss – just avoid going during the peak of summer, unless you really like your summer heat level to be over 95 and humid; ya’ll have a good time!

Dual-written by Juror #14 (who once lived in Charleston) & Admin of TBJ:: Click here to see juror photos

JR: Hue, Vietnam; Ming Mang Tomb

If you decide on an exotic vacation, have no objection to twenty-plus hours in the air and several more in various airports (depending on terrorist alerts), you might find yourself in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). If you happen to be adventurous and take a fifty year old jet that will expel pieces of plastic and metal into the air as fly from there, you may survive to land at Phu Bai and take a short taxi ride to the beautiful old imperial city of Hue. You could spend days visiting the Citadel, the DMZ Bar, or the shops and parks along Le Loi Street. But let’s say you did that already and now you’re in the bar at the Huong Giang Hotel (a classy, four star place for about fifty bucks a day) explaining in very poor Vietnamese how to make a dry martini to a bartender who explains back in very poor English that he already knows how to make a martini. To eliminate your annoying presence, this bartender may suggest taking a boat ride of twelve kilometres up the lonely and poetic Perfume River to the Ming Mang Tombs. If he does, listen to him. The boat and guide will cost about thirty dollars. Not only is it a beautiful trip full of cac dang flowers, banyan trees, and magnificent jungle foliage, every mosquito bite will be worth it once you arrive. Ming Mang was the emperor of Vietnam from 1820-1841, the son of Gia Long who founded the last royal dynasty (Nguyen) in the country. I don’t have room here to describe
the particulars of this wonderful site, but UNESCO put it on the list of world heritages in 1993. That should be enough to make you curious. And, you’ll pay about four dollars for a tour ticket. Try getting into Disneyland for that.

Juror #3, Jim McGarrah [click here to view Juror-submitted photos]

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