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Aguas Calientes, Peru

Posted on September 27, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

How do you end up in Aguas Calientes, Peru? You’ve either come there to spend the night so that you can visit Machu Picchu, which is only a 15 minute switch-back ride up the mountain on the west side of the city, or perhaps you’ve just trekked the Inca Trail and are looking for a cold beer to celebrate – either way (and there are several other reasons to come to this little town), Aguas Calientes retains a homey-yet-transient feel. Prices are steep here – food, drink, and hotel – and tourists willingly pay them as they stroll through the city’s largely pedestrianized streets, buying various souvenirs or tucking in at the city’s varied restaurants, which have a little something for everyone. There are only two ATMs in the city, and it’s a 50-50 chance that they might work, so bring cash, especially if you’re coming from Cusco. Glug down over-priced bottles of Cuzquena beer as you roam from groovy little eateries to tourist traps, but even a Coke will be of a higher cost then elsewhere in the Andes. Check out “El Mapi,” a bizarre and beautiful little spot for a good breakfast buffet or a super-swanky downstairs bar designed to look like a library. You can hike to the Thermal Baths (go in the morning before all the Inca Trail porters have, um, “used” them – it’s not unhygienic but these guys are sore and in need of rest and peace!), hike all the way to Ollaytaytambo (stay off the tracks!), or chance the view from Putukusi, a nearby peak that affords some decent views of Machu Picchu. Check out the massive market or stare down at the Urumbamba River as you roam around this ramshackle little town; stay out late enough and you can see how the town gets their goods AND disposes of their trash – hint: watch the train tracks in the town center. Large Inca statues and beautiful little plazas make Aguas Calientes, aside from their happy hour beer mark-up, a great spot to visit.

Filed under: Latin America, South America | Tagged: Aguas Calientes, ATMS, beer, Cuzquena beer, El Mapi Restaurant, foods, happy hour mark up, Inca statues, Machu Picchu, market, Peru, plazas, Putukusi, shops, South America, souveniers, thermal baths, train tracks | Leave a Comment »

Great Eat: La Bombeta, Barcelona, Spain

Posted on April 26, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

While you’re poking around in the Barceloneta area of Barcelona, you might as well veer off the beaten path (perhaps even with a newly-minted sorta-local, like your Barcelona-dwelling sibling) and take in some tapas, one of the few “Spanish” cultural things the prideful Catalan region of Spain still keeps (along with their lispy Castellano Spanish, yet no more bull-fighting in Barcelona – the bull ring in central Barcelona is now a mall). La Bombeta, located on a side street off the Mediterranean coastline of Barcelona, near the Drassanes metro, boasts that “aqui no hablamos ingles pero hacemos unas bombas cojonudas,” (here we don’t speak English but we’re making ‘bombs’” – meaning the “bombeta” tapas – meat rolled in dough and fried) so make sure to know your Spanish… or be willing to point to things on the menu and hope for a good bet, which you’ll probably find here. The waiters, while friendly, don’t budge on the language issue, so grab an Estrella (the local beer) or some vino tinto (red wine) and tuck in. La Bombeta has great patatas bravas covered with two mysterious and stomach-challenging sauces, and the chorizo and Spanish omelet are fantastic too. The pimientos del padron, pulpo were popular with those hanging out in the low-ceilinged, sparse-but-homey interior, and the mejillones (mussels) come either steamed (“de vapo”) or in a marinara sauce. The best Spanish tapas I’ve ever had were in San Sebastian, Spain – an area renowned for it’s gastronomical splendor – but La Bombeta is a great spot to get away from the more touristy areas (note – only cash is accepted here! NO cards!) and take in some authentic and muy rico tapas while in fabulous Barcelona.

Filed under: Europe, Great Eats | Tagged: Barcelona, Barceloneta, beer, bombetas, cash only, Catalan, chorizo, Drassanes metro, Estrella, Europe, fresh fish, friendly folk, great eat, know Spanish, La Bombeta, Mediterranean, mejillones, mussels, mystery sauce, no English, octopus, papas bravas, pimientos del padron, pulpo, side street, Spain, Spanish omelet, tapas, wine | 3 Comments »

Plymouth, England, UK

Posted on February 22, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

In one of his comedy routines, Eddie Izzard remarks, regarding the pilgrim voyage to America: “They sailed from Plymouth and landed in Plymouth – how lucky is that?” As always, Izzard brings the laughs, but it is kind of cool to stand on the place the pilgrims left from waaaay back in 1620. And you can, of course, do just such a unique activity while meandering through the boats and docks in the swarthy sea town of Plymouth, England. Sure, Plymouth is touristy, with markets and family-friendly Pavilions where you can ice skate and buy a fisherman magnet, but what’s most fun about Plymouth is wandering around and meeting some of the locals, who are a hardy and friendly bunch, at the local pubs in the evening. But totally walk around the Smeaton Lighthouse and the Barbican area, where you can take in historic architecture as you stroll toward the Plymouth Hoe (a name that prompted many giggles from my group of friends; yes, we were that mature:)) and watch the sprays of water surge from the wild Plymouth Sound. Check out the Royal William Yard if you’re into the history of the Royal Navy (or the Maritime Museum might do ya), and wilderness lovers can get some nature on the cheap at the expansive moor-like (Plymouth is near the moors – try to spot a moor pony!) Mount Edgcumbe Country Park, which overlooks the River Tamar. You can get some of the most delicious fish and chips in Plymouth, and let a local buy you a beer and have a chat – Plymouth is an enjoyable, laid-back town with a sailor’s swagger and plenty for any traveler to enjoy.

Filed under: Europe | Tagged: 1620, architecture, Barbican area, beer, boats, Eddie Izzard, England, fish and chips, friendly folk, ice skating, Maritime Museum, moors, Mount Edgcumbe Country Park, National Park, Pavilions, pilgrims, pint, Plymouth, Plymouth Hoe, Plymouth rock, pony, pubs, River Tamar, Royal Navy, Royal William Yard, sailors, Smeaton Lighthouse, swarthy, UK, United Kingdom, wandering | Leave a Comment »

LR/Great Eat: Kashmir; Louisville, KY

Posted on January 25, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

Check your Urban Spoon app, Google it, Yelp it, Yahoo it – everyone agrees and this Louisville local can concur – Kashmir is Louisville’s best Indian restaurant, hands down. It’s won the local independent paper, the LEO‘s, “Best Indian Restaurant” every year since 2002; the only reason it didn’t win in 2010 was due to a fire that closed the (ultimately relocated, one renovated house down) restaurant for most of the year. Kashmir has bounced back, however, and the place is hopping; if you go on a weekend (or during a warm evening) you can expect to wait, as Kashmir’s excellence is no secret around town. Not only do they have a tasty lunch buffet, but their dinner menu is huge. Think the usual tandoori (but never dry!), several different types of fresh-made nan, vindaloo and saag dishes, but you have to sample their curries – they are flavorful and bright and oh-so-yummy. You either get low heat (“mild”) or high octane (“hot”) in terms of your spice choices, but if the waiter recommends a level to you, take their advice – lamb briyani (infused with raisins, nuts, and fresh peas) is plenty spicy, even at the mild level. Their vegetable samosas are the best I’ve ever had, and you’d be a damn fool to pass up their chana masala. There’s not a bar, but they have a decent wine and beer list to help you cool off your exotic-spiced tongue – that is, if you’re not feeling the pistachio-colored and delectable kulfi ice cream. The family-operated business offers absent-minded but friendly service with a smile, and, as you roll yourself back to your car (park across the street to save hassle) you’ll be so glad you took a little trip to Northern India via Louisville.

Filed under: Great Eats, North America | Tagged: beer, curry, family business, fire, fresh vegetables, friendly folk, Google, great eat, Indian food, Kashmir, kulfi ice cream, KY, lamb briyani, LEO, local favorite, Local Review, Louisville, lunch buffet, masala, nan, Northern Indian cuisine, Northern Indian food, popular, re-opened, saag, tandoori, Urban Spoon, vegetable samosas, vegetarian, vindaloo, wait, wine, Yahoo, Yelp | 1 Comment »

Great Eat: Barley’s Taproom; Asheville, NC

Posted on January 4, 2011 by Admin of TBJ

As you make your way through the mountains of North Carolina, a stop in Asheville, NC is a definite must; it’s a charming Southern city with strong traces of mindful living buried in the town’s quirky fabric. Barley’s Taproom, located in the historic downtown area of Asheville is a great place to relax after a long drive or a day of shopping in Asheville’s boutique stores. Barley’s doesn’t have your average brews on tap – everything is either local microbrews or distinctive world brews. Barley’s isn’t for the anti-carb brigade; the hops in the beers are loaded with heady punches, and the sourdough pizzas and calzones are stout. Start your adventure into the one-meal-a-day plan with the restaurant’s fabulous black bean hummus, which boasts just the right of peppery kick. Sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese, and Andouille sausage are among some of the restaurant’s more adventurous pizza toppings, but the pizzas are huge, so plan accordingly. The jerk chicken and vegetable lasagna are great menu items, but if you stick with the pizza you’ll be definitely wowed. Couple the great food with a laid back atmosphere (a revamped early 1900s building, complete with high ceilings and exposed timber beams), alongside a little stage for live evening entertainment (bluegrass, folksy stuff that won’t intrude on your meal) makes Barley’s Taproom a welcome stop as you wind your way through the Blue Ridge.

Filed under: Great Eats, North America | Tagged: andouille sausage, Appalachian mountains, Asheville, Barley's Taproom, beer, big servings, black bean hummus, Blue Ridge Mountains, bluegrass, calzones, carbs, downtown, feta cheese, filling, friendly folk, great eat, historic, jerk chicken, live entertainment, local beer, local brews, micro brew beer, micro brews, music, NC, North Carolina, NY pizza, old building, pizza, sourdough bread, sun dried tomatoes, vegetable lasagna, world brews | 1 Comment »

St. Patrick’s Day Parade, Chicago, IL

Posted on November 23, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

There’s far too much of Chicago to condense in a short travel entry, and I haven’t been to the city enough to feel confident in giving it a thorough review. But Chicago is great; the muscular, midwestern attitude begets a friendly atmosphere, and the public transportation system rivals NYC’s in terms of expedience and character. However, if you get by the Second City, the Windy City, the City of Big Shoulders, a visit during the annual St. Patrick’s Day parade will surely give you a good taste of the city. You might spend your time taking in comedy the night before at Second City, or roaming around the lobby of the Palmer House, but the better part of your next day will be spent shlepping in the rain during the city’s boisterous festivities. Be sure to wear your green, just so you blend in, and admire the breadth of Chicago’s police force, which are out on foot, on horse, by car and by boat (just like in the Blues Brothers movie!). Get to the Chicago River early, ducking into the local coffee shops and hotel bars to keep warm and use the loos; the dyeing of the river is quick, but the energy of the crowd is wonderful; if they had a song to go with it, I’d be permanently hooked. Try to get on the east side of the Colombus Bridge, and do *not* try to cross it during the dyeing. After seeing the river turn green, immediately head south toward Millenium Park, where you can watch wee girls in curls dancing under ponchos tap down the street, and earnest Irish families with home-made floats waving their way down South Colombus Street. You can pub it up afterward, if you’re not drenched to the bone, and you’ll see remnants of the parade as you roam around the city the next day, checking out the Art Institute and the Picasso in Daly plaza. Grab a beer and a deep dish (who cares if it’s touristy – it’s unique! Try Giordano’s!) with the new friends you’ve met in Chicago, and don’t forget to take a deep pull of your green beer and offer a Céad Míle Fáilte to your new friends – or a simple sláinte will do; enjoy the deep-rooted Irish heritage in Chicago – even if some of the locals roll their eyes, they’re still happy to have you in sweet home Chicago.

Filed under: North America | Tagged: Art Institute, beer, Blues Brothers, Chicago, Colombus Street, Daly Plaza, dancers, deep-dish pizza, friendly folk, Giordano's, green, green beer, Illinois, music, Palmer House Hilton, parade, Picasso, police, ponchos, rain, Second City, St. Patrick's Day | Leave a Comment »

Great Eats: Unnammed, Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama

Posted on October 19, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

The Los Santos region of Panama is about as old-school Panama as you can get, though the area sees enough tourists for Carnival that you can get by with pigeon Spanish. But going past Las Tablas, the center of the region, to Le Peninsula de Azuero, will get you to some of the most beautiful and remote beach front you may ever witness. There’s a hotel with a restaurant in the area, and it’s all right, but go past it, further south down the main road, past the “maybe it’s open maybe it’s not” ocean-front pizza place to the open-air blue and tin-roofed building perched up at the top of the hill. Your beer will be in a bottle, and your food will be on a paper plate. There isn’t much selection from the old menu, which is posted with plastic letters on an old, yellowed Pepsi board, and there isn’t much to go on for beverages other than Coke, beer, and water, but the fish, oh the fish. The fish comes right out of the ocean, probably brought up from the boat a few hours before the restaurant opens – which, in Panama time, means there is no set time, just show up and somebody’ll come out and make you something. There will be soggy french fries or crackers to chose from for your bread, because you’ll need the carbs to make up for the amount of omega-3s you’re putting in your belly – the fish is fried (battered to a golden yellow, delicious, but watch for bones) or chopped into quadrants of ceviche. The wonder that is fresh raw fish, marinated in lemon and lime and god’s own grandeur, is unbeatable. You can grab a picnic table under the tin roof and listen to animated conversations from the locals, who are friendly and won’t judge you if you go back for seconds – the beer, fish, and bread will run you about $3 a round – as well as watch the local feral cats fight over your handouts (not advised). Or, put your feet up and watch the happenings below on the beach, your whole body and being smiling from the simplicity that is fresh fish, a beer, and good company while overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Filed under: Central America, Great Eats, Latin America | Tagged: atmosphere, beach, beer, bread, Carnival, cats, cheap, Coke, crackers, french fries, fresh fish, great eat, Las Tablas, Latin America, Le Peninsula de Azuero, Los Santos, Pacific Ocean, Panama, picnic table | Leave a Comment »

JR: Moab, Utah

Posted on September 8, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

Moab has become a popular destination for rock climbers and mountain bikers over the years. It is home to arguably the best slickrock bike trails in the country, and Arches National Park plays host to other-worldly sandstone formations and millions of motor-tourists (many of whom rarely step far from the car); however, if you’re not an experienced outdoor adventure sports gal or guy, but are intrigued by the remarkable landscape and want to escape the crowd, I have a relatively inexpensive suggestion.

Several years ago I spent a week floating Labyrinth Canyon just outside of Moab on the Green River. The trip begins in Green River State Park and most canoes use an area known as Mineral Bottom for the takeout point. You will, of course, need camping gear, and if you don’t own one, you’ll have to rent a canoe from one of the local outfitters in Moab and arrange for someone to shuttle your car from the put-in to the take-out. You will also need to rent a small portable toilet since Labyrinth Canyon’s eco-system is fragile and cannot tolerate human waste. Canoe, paddles, life jackets, vehicle shuttle, and toilet can all be rented for a week for less than $400 bucks, and it is well worth it. Labyrinth Canyon is a lazy section of the river that winds through 2000 foot Sandstone cliffs. I traveled it during the 100 degree dry summer heat, used the river to stay wet and cool, and only saw a dozen or so fellow humans throughout the entire trip. So it’s a great way to escape civilization without having to travel to the ends of the earth. Canoeing is also a great way to experience wilderness without having to carry everything on your back. Tip: Buy a couple of drybags to house essential items, specifically your sleeping bag, and freeze most of your beer before you leave because ice melts quick. If you put in at Ruby Ranch you can trim the length of the trip by a couple of days (and the canyon beyond Ruby Ranch is really the most awe inspiring section of the river), but be sure to take your time and do this right. Try to camp near side canyons and spend at least a couple of days exploring the terrain above your campsites. There are hundreds of petroglyphs scattered throughout the canyon, and at times you will have the discomforting, surreal, yet enjoyable sensation that you have ventured onto another planet. Know, of course, that you are preparing to spend up to a week completely removed from medical attention and the other safeguards of civilization, so if you’re a novice wilderness explorer, be sure to pack plenty of provisions, read up on the details of the trip, and pick your outfitters brain about potential dangers. There are only a couple of class II or III rapids on this stretch of the Green (depending upon the season and the water flow) and these rapids can be easily portaged around, so it’s a relaxing and relatively safe float trip for those without river experience. While floating Labyrinth Canyon (unless you intend to scale the 2000 foot cliff and walk the 40 or so miles to town) you are in wilderness, so there are absolutely no amenities. When you unload your boat at Mineral Bottom, be sure to save plenty of water for the ride back to Moab, which consists of 40 or so miles of rough, desolate dirt road (not the place to break down without water), and be sure to speak to the caretaker at Mineral Bottom. He is a trip. When in Moab, check out the Lazy Lizard Hostel for a shower and good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed. There is also plenty of free camping on BLM land just outside of the town (ask the locals). Woody’s Tavern has the coldest beer in town, but you’ll have to pay 3 bucks to become a member. Fellas, once you become a member, you’re lady friend can enter the establishment for free as your guest (gotta love Utah). Moab’s a cool town with plenty to see and do. Canyon Lands National Park is a few miles away and offers an array of opportunity Labyrinth Canyon on the Green River was one of the most romantic and memorable experiences of my life. I can’t recommend it enough.

Filed under: North America, Uncategorized | Tagged: Arches National Park, beer, BLM, canoeing, Canyon Lands National Park, drybags, Green River, Green River State Park, Juror #28, Labyrinth Canyon, Lazy Lizard Hostel, lifejackets, Mineral Bottom, Moab, paddles, pteroglyphs, rock climbing, Ruby Ranch, sandstone, sleeping bags, surreal, Utah, Woody's Tavern | Leave a Comment »

JR: Beirut, Lebanon

Posted on August 30, 2010 by Admin of TBJ

One word that can strike either images of pain, war, cruelty, and suffering into your heart, or on the other hand inspire memories of fun, luxury, partying, and hospitality: Beirut!

Beirut, Lebanon is one of the hottest cities in the world now. NY Times ranked it the number 1 city to visit in 2009 , while also getting very notable reviews from USA Today, Lonely Planet, CNN, AFP, and others.

Beirut is one of the prime travel destinations in the world with the gorgeous Mediterranean Sea on one side, and beautiful mountains and valleys on the other, combined with some of the best night life and party scene in the Middle East (and might I say… all of Asia!?) it makes for a fun time.

Although it has a history (and stereotype) of war, tension, and violence, it is actually a very safe and fun city. Do not believe anything you hear about Beirut or Lebanon on American media, because 90% of it isn’t true. You won’t get kidnapped by Hezbollah, you won’t ride camels, you won’t get bombed… on the contrary, you’ll get bombed on Almaza and DouDou shots (Almaza is the popular Lebanese brewed beer, and DouDou shots are a combination of lemon, tabasco, vodka, and olives–and is a lot better in person than you might think).

Americans are very welcome in Lebanon. Never have I felt unwelcome or unwanted. Tourism is in fact their main source of revenue so they WANT you here! A part from amazing night life, bars and clubs everywhere, and incredible shopping opportunities, the beautiful Mediterranean Sea is a hot spot for blue water and sandy/rocky beaches, the mountains are popular for relaxing and skiing, the downtown is newly rebuilt, and all throughout Lebanon you have incredible opportunities to experience Arab culture and the natural beauty of Lebanon, as well as thousands of years of history including Crusader castles, Phoenician fortresses, Ummayyed ruins, and much more. Whether its at the Jeita Grotto, a natural calcium deposit cavern that was contending for one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World, or the ancient Roman temple in Baalbek, no matter if you are a culture and history nut, or just a party nut, something is here for you to do and enjoy.

So I say if someone wants to come to Beirut, I would be happy to show you around! And as they say in Arabic which you will always hear if you come: “Ahlan wa Sahlan,” meaning… you are very welcome here!

Juror #25/Ogie

Filed under: Asia | Tagged: AFP, Ahlan wa Sahlan, Almaza, Arabic, Asia, Baalbek, beer, Beirut, CNN, Crusader castles, DouDou, downtown, fun, hospitality, Jeita Grotto, juror #25, Lebanon, local liquor, Lonely Planet, luxury, Mediterranean Sea, Middle East, mountains, NY Times, Phonenician fortresses, rocky beaches, Roman Temple, sandy beaches, sterotype, tourism, Ummayyed ruins, USA Today, valleys, war | Leave a Comment »

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