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Ocean Isle, NC

My mother’s side of the family is large, with multiple cousins, aunts, uncles, second cousins, siblings, etc., and they all like to get together every few years or so, en masse, in Ocean Isle, NC. As a consequence, many of my childhood beach memories center around Ocean Isle, a rare strip of beach front property that isn’t taken over by condos, hotel chains, and kitsch stores. Ocean Isle has rental properties and two hotels – that’s it – and the end of the island is a gated community. There’s no shortage of sand for your sunning and swimming desires, and you can easily grab beach gear at Surf Unlimited or any of the revolving-named stores near the bridge. It’s easy to rent a bike and tool around the island that way, or you can easily stroll from where you’ve decided to stay (cheaper rentals are on the inlet/intercoastal waterway) to the “town” area, which has a couple of bars and restaurants (Sharkey’s = no, the Giggling Mackerel = maybe), an ice cream parlor, and a putt-putt course. There used to be a water park, but if you’re looking for that sort of beach-shabby-chic, check out the arcade and boardwalk area. Grab an ice cream cone at the Ocean Isle Creamery, then take a walk on the quiet beach. A leisurely walk to the Shalotte Sound offers a great opportunity to watch crabs scuttle about the muddy sand, but if you get too bored, you can always take a plane ride over the area – it’s cheap, it’s scary, but it’s something one can do. Ocean Isle is calm and sedate, and it’s one of the quietest beaches at night. If you’re looking to party, head south to Myrtle or Sunset, but if you’re looking for relaxation, not much beats Ocean Isle.

Corolla, NC

The Outer Banks of North Carolina draws thousands of visitors every year; maybe it’s because of the history and lighthouses, maybe it’s because it’s so hard to get to, but, to this traveler, Corolla, near Duck, is like an outpost on the edge of the sea. There’s a general store, a pint-size library (I still have my card), and sandy roads that, if you venture too far off of them, you’ll need four-wheel drive. The Currituck Lighthouse, stately in it’s red brick, is a great way to catch a breeze (and great views) while you’re relaxing at the shore; make sure to note all the iron detail on the inside of the lighthouse, and try to spot a wild horse while you’re up there. Speaking of the wild horses, the folks in Corolla respect their equine neighbors, and certain areas of the island are kept wild and rugged in order to deter you from interfering with the horses, though there are some “tours” available if you really must seek them out. There are some great little boutique shops if you’re looking to spend some cash or soak up some AC, and jewelry, along with ubiquitous sand dollar art, are available for your purchasing pleasure. The main point of Corolla, along with the rest of North Carolina’s Outer Banks, is to rest and enjoy the unspoiled prettiness that the local residents have worked so hard to preserve. The proximity of the area to pirate treasures and graveyards only enhances the vibe that you’ve truly gotten away from it all, and that you are on an adventure, even if it’s just to see how many sand crabs you can find between naps on the beach.

Great Eats: Unnammed, Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama

The Los Santos region of Panama is about as old-school Panama as you can get, though the area sees enough tourists for Carnival that you can get by with pigeon Spanish. But going past Las Tablas, the center of the region, to Le Peninsula de Azuero, will get you to some of the most beautiful and remote beach front you may ever witness. There’s a hotel with a restaurant in the area, and it’s all right, but go past it, further south down the main road, past the “maybe it’s open maybe it’s not” ocean-front pizza place to the open-air blue and tin-roofed building perched up at the top of the hill. Your beer will be in a bottle, and your food will be on a paper plate. There isn’t much selection from the old menu, which is posted with plastic letters on an old, yellowed Pepsi board, and there isn’t much to go on for beverages other than Coke, beer, and water, but the fish, oh the fish. The fish comes right out of the ocean, probably brought up from the boat a few hours before the restaurant opens – which, in Panama time, means there is no set time, just show up and somebody’ll come out and make you something. There will be soggy french fries or crackers to chose from for your bread, because you’ll need the carbs to make up for the amount of omega-3s you’re putting in your belly – the fish is fried (battered to a golden yellow, delicious, but watch for bones) or chopped into quadrants of ceviche. The wonder that is fresh raw fish, marinated in lemon and lime and god’s own grandeur, is unbeatable. You can grab a picnic table under the tin roof and listen to animated conversations from the locals, who are friendly and won’t judge you if you go back for seconds – the beer, fish, and bread will run you about $3 a round – as well as watch the local feral cats fight over your handouts (not advised). Or, put your feet up and watch the happenings below on the beach, your whole body and being smiling from the simplicity that is fresh fish, a beer, and good company while overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

Wilmington, NC

Situated on the Cape Fear River, Wilmington, North Carolina, remains one of the cooler coastal towns that North Carolina has to offer.  If you’re fortunate enough to be able to navigate downtown Wilmington’s one-way streets, you’ll enjoy the small but friendly downtown Wilmington, which features the touristy Riverwalk; it’s actually pretty nice after you’ve tucked in a good meal and continue down the River at a sleepy pace with your last drink warming your belly.  Wilmington’s quirkier side can be seen closer to the downtown area, where locals and UNC-W’ers in the know tend to flock; check out the Brown Coat Pub for their Guerilla Theater comedy nights, and simply bar-crawl your way through the trendy couch bars and half art gallery/eateries.  Daytime downtown results in some good shopping finds, and I love Brooklyn Pizza best of all of Wilmington’s little pizza dives. Most tourists flock to check out the Battleship USS Carolina, but unless you love history, skip it and head to the beach (Ft. Fisher, Kure, and Wrightsville are all close by); you’ll be able to scope out Wilmington’s old town architecture – especially the churches – on the way there.  Skip the boat tours unless you’re into ecology or just like boats – there are haunted tours, mystery tours, etc. in the Wilmington area. Wilmington has a burgeoning film scene (Dawson’s Creek was filmed there, yes, but UNC-W has a film program too!) and definitely check around to see if anything’s going on while you’re there; Wilmington is sleepy, but it is always a good time.

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