• Browse Travel Reviews

Great Eat: De’ Coltelli, Pisa, Italy

Of course, you’re in Italy and you’re eating gelato. It’s pretty unavoidable, and, when it’s hot, everybody – locals, tourists, etc. – is eating it. While I didn’t get to Pisa (of the Leaning Tower fame) the first time I visited Italy, I have to say it’s an Italian town worth checking out – it’s darker, duskier, and far more romantic than its neighbor (by a 30 minute train ride), Florence (Firenze). And, while you’re in Pisa, strolling down the banks of the ancient Arno, the gelato idea sounds more and more appealing. So stop in at Gelateria De Coltelli’s, conveniently located near the Ponte di Mezzo (big bridge you’ll definitely cross when walking ’round Pisa). Primary reasons to try De Cotltelli’s: (a) I could read some of the menu in my not-superb Italian – think simple, fresh, and natural ingredients like ice, cream, sugar, honey, etc., but in an artisan, passed-down-through-Sicilian-heritage way. (b) there was a crowd of local folks of all ages, all smiling and laughing. (c) the people working there didn’t speak much English. I figured this was a good spot, and the gelato was phenomenal. They have all sorts of blended flavors, with coffee and cream and ricotta mixed in, and all of their fruit flavors – pear, banana, strawberry – were made right from the fruits they’re named after. You don’t stay inside and eat, though the reddish interior is chic; the best part of the whole experience is where you eat your ice cream – sitting up on the giant concrete walls that overlook the Arno. It’s a great experience; check it out!

Florence, Italy

Firenze! Oh, vibrant Florence; it’s the only place where I’ve seen downright merriment propelling a late-night protest, where the people marching through the streets sang the city’s unofficial anthem, “Bella Ciao” while waving flags and drinking wine.  The Florentines are a proud, vibrant, and exhuberant bunch, and I suppose growing up in the cradle of art, the birthplace of the Italian language (Dante was a Florentine, after all, so when he chose the vernacular dialect to write the Inferno he used his home city’s slang), and, well, the whole birthplace of the Renaissance. You have to go to the Uffizi, if for no other reason than to see the little angel-playing-guitar painting (Rosso il Fiorentino’s “Musical Angel,” if you must know), nevermind the Bottecelli’s, da Vinci’s, Michelangelo’s,  etc. And marvel at Michelangelo’s David at La Galleria dell’Accademia; go all out and visit Donatello’s version at the Bargello while you’re “arting.” There are so many wonderful museums in Florence, and you should definitley get to a few, but it’s worth getting out into the city as well, as it’s architecture and layout are a work of art in themselves. The Duomo is the center to the city, and if you get lost, just ask “dove duomo?” (doe-vay) and you’ll get pointed in the right direction; atop the Duomo are great views of the city, but a hillside hike will afford a quieter panorama.
You’re guarunteed a good time as you prowl around the Medici compound, and touring their home is very worthwhile; you must see Michelangelo’s intended grave marker, “Dusk and Dawn” at Basilica di San Lorenzo, which is housed in a chapel where Michelangelo stayed while in exile, and some of his pencil sketches on the walls are still preserved; the tension and vitality of art in Florence can be seen, metaphorically, in the fever in these harried sketches. Via de’ Cerretani and Piazza della Signoria were some of my favorite parts of the city, but there are plenty winding streets and piazzas to keep you entertained. Wind around the Arno and grab some good leather, or just roam around the city taking in the buzz of the city. Check out Santa Croce for handmade (and well-priced) leather goods, and a look inside the Baptistry – untouched by the reformation – and notice that Jesus always shuns with his left hand in Italian art. Now learn that “left” in Italian is sinistra, i.e., the “sinister.” This language insight is also a cultural one; even if you visit the Serial Killer Museum (bizarre) you will feel the creative energy of Florence. Take it in, ask someone to teach you the song (they will), sample the house wines and gorge on the food -oh! the food! – and perhaps a little of Florence’s magic dust will fall on you.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 264 other followers