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Great Eat: The Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar, Boston, MA

Oh little slice of heaven on Boylston Street, I’m so glad I found you! Closer to the residential area near Fenway Park in Boston is a small gastropub called The Citizen Public House & Oyster Bar (or “the Citizen” if you will) that you should definitely visit next time you’re in Beantown. Charming, small, with a bar that circles not only very friendly bartenders but also a clear view of the fresh seafood you’re about to eat (or you can tuck in to the sumptuous booths), this pub is a great new eatery for the Fenway/Kenmore area. The chalkboard specials – butternut squash soup, anyone? – reflect local and seasonal ingredients, and the mains – while pretty heavy on the meat (duck, ribs, steak, tuna) – are exquisite. And the apparently roast whole pigs, so thus the pub’s mascot and logo is a pig. The Citizen pumps a mean soundtrack while good times are had over board servings of artisinal cheese and pork, the cocktails are fun and heady. Of course I have to talk about the oysters – DIVINE. Large, shucked right in front of you, and served with some house-made horseradish concoction that had me drooling. Non-carnivores will revel in the creative salads and inventive sides, like polenta fries. You’ve got to check this place out; it’s one of Boston’s many MANY great eats.

Happy Halloween & Hiatus

Happy October! The Admin’s gotta go on a break, but keep up with our Archive Week posts on Twitter and Facebook, and feel free to submit your travel reviews all month long!

Happy Halloween and BOO! from your fellow travelers at http://travelbyjury.com.

Happy Holidays!

TravelByJury.com won’t be posting anything new until January 4th, 2011. The site is undergoing some minor updates and changes during this time, but all posts will be available for your reading pleasure. Until then, check out our archive post feeds on Twitter and Facebook, and please, feel free to submit a review! Everyone here at TravelByJury.com wishes you a safe and happy holiday season, and we hope to see you in 2011!

Isla Taboga, Panama

One of my top five, all time greatest places I’ve been, is a little island on the Pacific side of the Panama Bay called Isla Taboga. The island has a rough history, as it’s been used for US World War II artillery practice (you’ll get some odd photos – there’s you, there’s your friend in the beautiful blue water, there’s the white sand… there’s the artillery weapon getting engulfed by vines on the tiny island in the background), and there’s a large looted cemetery that had something to do with one of the French attempts to build the Panama Canal. But the Island is covered, covered, *covered* with flowers, and as you stroll down the islands one main road, through it’s “city” of San Pedro, (turn left after getting off the ferry – the only way to get to the island) you can breathe in their delicious scents. You’ll see friendly people walking aimlessly about, with various states of housing (but mostly brightly colored and sea-weathered) and the odd chicken or cat. Pay tribute to Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of the island, and, if you ask nicely with a smile (and ask in Spanish) the caretakers of the island’s main church will let you up into the bell tower, where you not only get a great view, but also a great sense of peace. There’s snorkeling available, as well as a short hike up Cerra de la Cruz (where more WWII leftovers dot the landscape, as well as a giant cross), and you can always check out the bird refuge, the Refugio Vida Silvestre Islas Taboga y Urabá, on the south side of the island. But the best thing to do during your stay on the island? Swim, sun, sit, and relax.

Manchester, UK

While visions of unibrowed-Oasis singers danced in my head, I got off the bus in downtown Manchester on a chilly and damp November day; I was there by luck – a work trip to London coincided nicely with seeing one of my favorite comedians, Eddie Izzard, at the glossy MEN arena in Manchester, and I had time to explore the bustling city. It was near Christmas time, so all the shops in the North Quarter were a hub of excitement and laughter. By nightfall the area around the glistening Urbis Museum (sort of smaller-scale Picadilly Circus – the area, not the abstract-art-glass-architecture museum) was bustling, and the Manchester Wheel (small scale London Eye) boasted many giggling teenagers queuing up. People were milling around in the sleek Picadilly Gardens, and I enjoyed eating my makeshift picnic lunch while watching some city workers put holiday lights up in the trees surrounding an imposing statue of Queen Victoria. Walking the city brought me to the fabulous Imperial War Museum, as well as charming glimpses at the dimly-lit cafes and curry houses set against the River Tame; and, while I walked, a friend who’d been to the city did advise that the trams are really easy to use. Manchester Cathedral was imposing at dusk, but the gorgeous little lit-foodpath/waterfall area around it, enhanced by skate-boarding kids, was very urbane and welcoming. Manchester has Roman fortress ruins and the cute (refurbished) Shambles Square, and is a sports hub with football clubs Manchester United (Man U!) and Manchester City (com’on, Ci-t-y!). The Manchester accent is one of my favorites of England, and the people felt less chilly and distant than the rushed crispness of Londoners; hope you get to hear it soon.

Old Bale Grist Mill State Park, CA

If I told you that the Old Bale Grist Mill (or simply Old Bale Mill) State Historic Park was only 10 minutes away from Calistoga, CA, a laid-back but luxurious Napa Valley wine town, would you be more interested in going? And, you know, if you get tired after your visit, Calistoga has a lot of spas, and you can shop ’til you drop on Lincoln Avenue (very nice artisan stuff); oh, and did I mention you’re in California wine country? You really should just pop over to the Old Bale Mill; it was one of the most interesting historic happenings I’ve had, and I’ve been to a few historic spots. But the guides at the Old Bale Mill were vivacious and informative, like friendlier, tanner versions of Bill Nye. After you learn about the grist mill and granary (I won’t spoil the show for you, but local trees – think redwoods – had been used to make it and there’s a demonstration… And no, the redwoods weren’t in too much danger at the time the mill was built), you can check out Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, via a trail so quaint and pretty you’d think happy gnomes might pop out and sing you along. The Old Bale Mill is awesome, and would be a great blip for your next northern California trip.

Happy Thanksgiving!

TravelByJury.com is taking off ’til next Monday, November 29th, for the Thanksgiving Holiday! Until then, why not check out some of our “Great Eats” reviews, listed below (or you can browse via our little category search menu, to your left)?

TravelByJury.com is thankful for you, dear readers, and very thankful for our intrepid jurors; Happy Thanksgiving to All!

Maggie Jones; London, England
The General Greene & Cake Man Raven; Brooklyn, New York, USA
La Paella De La Reina; Madrid, Spain
Brasserie Esemeralla; Paris, France
Black Bear Bakery; St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Murphy’s Ice Cream; Dingle, Ireland
Ristorante Zeppelin; Orvieto, Italy
Uto Klum; Üetliberg, Switzerland
Seviche, Louisville, Kentucky, USA
Unnammed; Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama
Three Carrots Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
White Horse Tavern; New York City, New York, USA
The Duke of York; London, England

Wilmington, NC

Situated on the Cape Fear River, Wilmington, North Carolina, remains one of the cooler coastal towns that North Carolina has to offer.  If you’re fortunate enough to be able to navigate downtown Wilmington’s one-way streets, you’ll enjoy the small but friendly downtown Wilmington, which features the touristy Riverwalk; it’s actually pretty nice after you’ve tucked in a good meal and continue down the River at a sleepy pace with your last drink warming your belly.  Wilmington’s quirkier side can be seen closer to the downtown area, where locals and UNC-W’ers in the know tend to flock; check out the Brown Coat Pub for their Guerilla Theater comedy nights, and simply bar-crawl your way through the trendy couch bars and half art gallery/eateries.  Daytime downtown results in some good shopping finds, and I love Brooklyn Pizza best of all of Wilmington’s little pizza dives. Most tourists flock to check out the Battleship USS Carolina, but unless you love history, skip it and head to the beach (Ft. Fisher, Kure, and Wrightsville are all close by); you’ll be able to scope out Wilmington’s old town architecture – especially the churches – on the way there.  Skip the boat tours unless you’re into ecology or just like boats – there are haunted tours, mystery tours, etc. in the Wilmington area. Wilmington has a burgeoning film scene (Dawson’s Creek was filmed there, yes, but UNC-W has a film program too!) and definitely check around to see if anything’s going on while you’re there; Wilmington is sleepy, but it is always a good time.

JR: Moab, Utah

Moab has become a popular destination for rock climbers and mountain bikers over the years. It is home to arguably the best slickrock bike trails in the country, and Arches National Park plays host to other-worldly sandstone formations and millions of motor-tourists (many of whom rarely step far from the car); however, if you’re not an experienced outdoor adventure sports gal or guy, but are intrigued by the remarkable landscape and want to escape the crowd, I have a relatively inexpensive suggestion.

Several years ago I spent a week floating Labyrinth Canyon just outside of Moab on the Green River. The trip begins in Green River State Park and most canoes use an area known as Mineral Bottom for the takeout point. You will, of course, need camping gear, and if you don’t own one, you’ll have to rent a canoe from one of the local outfitters in Moab and arrange for someone to shuttle your car from the put-in to the take-out. You will also need to rent a small portable toilet since Labyrinth Canyon’s eco-system is fragile and cannot tolerate human waste. Canoe, paddles, life jackets, vehicle shuttle, and toilet can all be rented for a week for less than $400 bucks, and it is well worth it. Labyrinth Canyon is a lazy section of the river that winds through 2000 foot Sandstone cliffs. I traveled it during the 100 degree dry summer heat, used the river to stay wet and cool, and only saw a dozen or so fellow humans throughout the entire trip. So it’s a great way to escape civilization without having to travel to the ends of the earth. Canoeing is also a great way to experience wilderness without having to carry everything on your back. Tip: Buy a couple of drybags to house essential items, specifically your sleeping bag, and freeze most of your beer before you leave because ice melts quick. If you put in at Ruby Ranch you can trim the length of the trip by a couple of days (and the canyon beyond Ruby Ranch is really the most awe inspiring section of the river), but be sure to take your time and do this right. Try to camp near side canyons and spend at least a couple of days exploring the terrain above your campsites. There are hundreds of petroglyphs scattered throughout the canyon, and at times you will have the discomforting, surreal, yet enjoyable sensation that you have ventured onto another planet. Know, of course, that you are preparing to spend up to a week completely removed from medical attention and the other safeguards of civilization, so if you’re a novice wilderness explorer, be sure to pack plenty of provisions, read up on the details of the trip, and pick your outfitters brain about potential dangers. There are only a couple of class II or III rapids on this stretch of the Green (depending upon the season and the water flow) and these rapids can be easily portaged around, so it’s a relaxing and relatively safe float trip for those without river experience. While floating Labyrinth Canyon (unless you intend to scale the 2000 foot cliff and walk the 40 or so miles to town) you are in wilderness, so there are absolutely no amenities. When you unload your boat at Mineral Bottom, be sure to save plenty of water for the ride back to Moab, which consists of 40 or so miles of rough, desolate dirt road (not the place to break down without water), and be sure to speak to the caretaker at Mineral Bottom. He is a trip. When in Moab, check out the Lazy Lizard Hostel for a shower and good night’s sleep in a comfortable bed. There is also plenty of free camping on BLM land just outside of the town (ask the locals). Woody’s Tavern has the coldest beer in town, but you’ll have to pay 3 bucks to become a member. Fellas, once you become a member, you’re lady friend can enter the establishment for free as your guest (gotta love Utah). Moab’s a cool town with plenty to see and do. Canyon Lands National Park is a few miles away and offers an array of opportunity Labyrinth Canyon on the Green River was one of the most romantic and memorable experiences of my life. I can’t recommend it enough.

Key West, FL

If you go down to Key West in the off season, aka when it’s roasting hot (August into October), you’ll enjoy a lot more of Key West’s appeal – it’s a spooky place.  I’d expected Key West to be sort of a retirement-home- with-spring-break-perpetual-foam-party, with old men leering and keggers on every corner, which wasn’t what I was looking for, but snorkeling had been dangled in front of my face, so I went on. The city sells souveniers referring to it’s wish to become “The Conch Republic,” and after a few days there, you soon see its foils of the party-image of Florida. Here are the exhibits – would the jury please note that relaxing, of course is priority one when in Key West, but having fun is often a very close second.

Exhibit A: an imposing Presidential home (only used by Truman – ah, those Cold War days of yore) that is still arm-guarded and rather menacing from in contrast with the beautiful old architecture (like that around the tourist-laden area near the Custom House) and laid-back attitude of Key West. Also, the majority of Key Westerners are either independently wealthy or working about three jobs to afford to live there – there’s a hustling spirit (check out the Prohbition-era carvings in the gates – the ones that look more like beer bottles than roses means you could drink there) that bumps nicely against the beach vibe.
Exhibit B: Ramshackle tin-roofed open-space areas are the best, bar none, spots to grab food. Look out at the ocean – that’s where your food came from. This morning. Skip Jimmy Buffett’s “Margaritaville,” but do buy a key lime pie from the Blonde Giraffe – the local pick for the best pie.
Exhibit C: Aside from, say, Miami, Key West has arguably has Florida’s drag queen population on lock; expect to have fabulous conversations with men who know how to draw on eyeliner with enviable precision.
Exhibit D: Spectacular snorkeling. Take the catamaran. It’s awesome.
Exhibit E, for Earnest: When you’re in his cavernous, sprawling home, only seconds away from the bars, the lighthouse, Mile Marker 0, and the place where you are really close to Cuba (the southernmost point of the US, according to the monument everyone takes a picture of – so did I), you can really feel Hemmingway’s good side. He was a rascal, a jerk, a genius, an idiot, and a clever bastard, and the tours of his home are entertaining as all get out – and yes, you can pet the cats. Fun trivia: Hemmingway’s home has the only basement of all the homes of Key West. Take a tip from Earnest and just wander the city, feeling that Tennessee Williams’-style (he wrote a few plays when he lived there) edgy heat that gets you loose and laughing.

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