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LR/JR: The Florida Keys, USA

I’m a local South Florida guy. I was prompted to write a review from a long lost friend.
A trip to the Florida Keys begins with a ride over “20 mile strech” from Florida City to Key Largo. In Largo, eat at Doc’s Diner for breakfast,or Sharky’s for lunch, you won’t regret it. It’s a little diner, like most places in the keys, next to a bar.
Diving in Key Largo is the best in the U.S. There you will find Penekamp National Park. There are spur and groove reefs between 5-45 ft that offer the most beautiful coral structures anywhere. There are many sites to see such as North Dry Rocks (a personal fav), Spanish Anchor, and the Christ of the Abyss. The Christ of the Abyss is the most famous dive site in the keys. There are church services on Sundays above the statue. If diving in Key Largo, I recommend Ocean Divers as a charter. Penekamp also has charters if Ocean Divers is full. Please tip the dive master.
Moving south from Key Largo the views open up. There are mangrove and sea grape on the road side and small islands on the horizon. Islamorada is the next town. There you will find several bars and resturants, the most popular being “Holiday Isle”. There are charter boats for fishing and diving and a tiki bar with a swimming pool in it. After Islamorada, the big bridges begin. Its a long drive to the next town so enjoy the ride. Grassy Key, just before Marathon, has the dolphin and sea turtle hospital. Visitors are welcome, donations too.
Marathon is in the Middle Keys. OMG the whole place smells like food. If you’re still hungry, there is a great sandwhich shop inside the liquor store on the ocean side before 7 Mile Bridge (sorry, the name escapes me). Also there is 7 Mile Grill. Get the grouper, it’s bigger than the plate.
Now we are getting down to the heart of the keys. Seven Mile Bridge was an engineering marvel in its day. The orginal has been replaced with a new bridge. The old bridge still stands, resisting time and gravity. There is a dead pine tree growing from the old bridge’s road deck about 4 miles into the drive. Really cool to see. There is a really beautiful vista at the hump of the bridge. After 7 mile bridge, you are in the Saddlebunch Keys. There are islands everywhere. Continuing further, you drive over the Long Key Viaduct. It too has been replaced.
The towns get smaller as you drive into the Key Deer Sanctuary. Look around, the deer are usually on the road side; please drive carefully through here. These deer are tame because they are protected. The locals feed them but it is ILLEGAL. These deer are tiny – only about 50 pounds. It’s really pretty to watch them mingle around the lobster traps.
Past Deer Key is Cudjoe Key. According to me, this is the best place in the keys for sportsman. To take advantage, you need a boat. Hire a guide, ask a local, explore on your own. I risk exposing great secrets here. Hint, hint. Leaving Cudjoe Key, you will see Sugarloaf Key. I accidentally saw a Jimmy Buffett concert there. He played a private show for a wedding while I was fishing. Lucky me.
We have arrived to the best place to party in the keys: Key West. Affectionally known as The Conch Repubilc, Key West is a mecca for drinkers, divers, fisherman, and partiers from all over the country. Be careful getting too drunk, there are pickpockets in Mallory Square. Look for the silver mime and try to steal his bicycle. He gets soo mad!
Duval Street is famous. The street is lined with bars, resturants, and art galleries. Many people try, to thier demise, “the Duval crawl.” This means drinking at every bar on Duval from end to end: begin at Smather’s Beach end at Mallory Square. Leave your kids at home!
Do yourself a favor, eat at “Blue Heaven.” This place was a favorite hang out of Hemmingway and Jimmy Buffet played a concert on the watertower. There are chickens and six-toed cats everywhere. After dinner, watch the sunset on Mallory Square. Take the family to Wyland Galleries and Peter Lik Galleries. Also check out Mel Fishers Maritime Museum and Hemmingway House.
I’ve been going to the Keys for years. There is no place like it.
Oh, refer to the locals as “conchs.” They will appreciate it.

Juror #32

Juror Series: States Worth Driving Through; California

Ah, California, the one state I think that should become its own country.  At the same time, it’s also a land that shouldn’t ever be  missed if you have a chance to visit because it has so many wonders.  When you say California, most people think of Los Angeles, Malibu, and/or Hollywood.  However, in my mind it brings images of zen deserts, enormous Sequoias, and crystal blue mountain lakes. It is a land that is filled with tranquil beauty and elegant nature that rivals that of many other states, and like New York, shouldn’t be written off only as filled with huge cities.

I started my trip on Interstate 5 coming out of Oregon.  I-5 is one of the wonderful roads like I-10 or I-95  that frames the US.  It begins at the border of Washington state and Canada, snakes  through the inner coast of Washington and Oregon, and then cuts California in half lengthways  in the center.  If followed to the end, it comes out at Tijuana, Mexico.  It is honestly one of those roads that should be traveled by every serious road tripper and experienced to the fullest.

Anyway, the great state of California!  Entering California from the north brings you into the gorgeous Californian Rocky Mountains.  It was here that I saw mountain lakes that could rival the startling blue of the Caribbean Ocean;  they were an aqua-white-green so vivid that you have to see it to believe it.  The surrounding scenery of mountains covered in orange and brown rocks and large shaggy pine trees create the sensation that you have stepped back into the heyday of the 1800’s gold rush days.  I wish I could have spent more time in this gorgeous part of the state, but my destination was farther south.

After the amazing peaks of the Rockies, I-5 comes into the breadbasket of California, the valley that hosts the capital, Sacramento.  My most vivid memory of this part of the state is how golden yellow the fields were, like liquid honey spread across the land.  These rolling hills hid various cattle land, wheat fields, and grape vineyards paired with the beautiful greens of late May.  This is a part of California that looks so quaint, filled with hard working people taking care of the family farms;  it doesn’t fit the normal picture of busy LA or Hollywood, and I think that is why I liked it so much.  Quaint, gentle, and warm, it could have been the  Midwest or parts of the South.

Leaving the breadbasket, the desert begins. It’s not so much a desert once you hit Modesto and Fresno, but it is a dryer part of the state.  The drive takes you by large open fields where most of the produce in the US is grown.  Vegetables and fruits of all kinds grow here, and the hard work of these land-laborers is very apparent, and so are the complex ways of irrigation.  When you go through this part of the state, it is a must to stop on a side road at a produce stand.  Most often than not, the produce you are buying was picked fresh that morning in the field behind the stand.  And while you are stopping off in this part of the state, you need to make a day trip to see the Sequoia National Forest.

Located about 30-60 minutes east of Fresno, the Sequoia National Forest is the refuge of the largest trees in the world. These trees have reached to almost 300 feet tall and have branches at 7 feet in diameter.  Walking through this forest is like nothing else on Earth and should be seen by everyone.  It makes you feel very small and humble among such awe-inspiring nature.  When you go, be sure to pack a jacket.  Even in the height of summer, it can be a bit cool in this National Park.  (Oddly enough I went there on the hottest day of the year and it was only 80 degrees.)

My trip on I-5 stopped at Bakersfield, and then turned onto Hwy 58, taking me deeper into desert country towards Needles and Barstow.  If you go this route to reach I-40, make sure you have plenty of fuel.  There is very little in terms of filling stations out there, so running out of gas is not a good idea; believe the signs that warn about this.  Out here you will also pass Edwards Air Force base, where every new aircraft for the US military is test flown.  The base is steeped in aviation history and should be visited by any aviation buffs, but check their website to make reservations for their tours.  Nearby is also the secretive Area 51, but I’m sure tours aren’t available there.  Also in this part of California is Boron where Borax is made.  It makes the air smell like kitty litter, which is just odd.

I highly suggest a trip like this through California.  Will it take you to such places as San Francisco or LA?  No, but it will instead give you a broader view of all the cards California holds as a state.  It isn’t all beaches and Hollywood glamour.  It is instead filled with rich beauty and studious farming that feeds most of the US.  A trip like this gives you a better sense of the humanity in California, instead of the drama of celebrity gossip.  It’s peaceful and a state worth driving through.

Until next time, happy road trippin’.

Juror #11/ A Wandering Soul

Juror Series: States Worth Driving Through; South Dakota

South Dakota isn’t the first state you think of when you hear the words “road trip,” but it would be a great miss if you never did it.  South Dakota is the land of the Native American and cowboy,  the raw mountains and windy plains, and the great bison and the elusive jackalope.  How can you not want to road trip this state?  My road trip took me on I-90, the only interstate to traverse this great state.  Entering this state from the east you find yourself going from the smooth flat plains of Minnesota into a rolling landscape of tall grasses frothing to and fro like waves on a gentle sea.  The wind in this part of the state is a relative constant 5 to 15 miles an hour, making it the perfect hair dryer as you walk from the showers back to your campsite.  Interstate 90 will take you through Sioux Falls and then into the Buffalo Gap National Grassland. This is where they filmed the movie Dances with Wolves, and the scenery is simply beautiful; green as far as the eye can see and hardly a tree in sight.  Also dotting the road are various farms in the distance, with the occasional silo or barn near the road, yet the state rarely loses a wildness feeling. And if you get a chance to see a storm coming in over the horizon, the show of colors and clouds is a sight that is hard to beat.

After the plains start to get boring, South Dakota changes it up again with the Badlands, which is a small side trip off I-90. Developed over eons of prehistoric land changes, these buttes, pinnacles, and hills are a kaleidoscope of mineral colors layering similar to the Grand Canyon.  Rich reds, bright yellows, deep browns, and velvety blacks all hide their own treasures.  As Frank Lloyd Wright put it: “What I saw gave me an indescribable sense of mysterious elsewhere – a distant architecture, ethereal…, an endless supernatural world more spiritual than earth but created out of it.” I can’t describe The Badlands any better than that because that is how they made me feel too.

Nestled outside of the Badlands, is the famous Wall Drug in the town of Wall, SD.  Wall Drug got its fame from offering free ice water to thirsty travelers during the Depression, it is now a 76,000 square foot monstrosity that houses shops, galleries, and various attractions.  You could call it a house of tacky kitsch or a sight to behold, I’ll let you be the judge on that, but suffice it to say, you should stop and see it for a bit.

After you have made your weird way out of Wall Drug, begin your journey to Rapid City, home of Mount Rushmore.  I’m going to give you a secret about Mt. Rushmore that I wish I had known earlier.  All those pictures you see of the faces being huge and up close?  As a visitor you are quite a distance away, and unless you have an awesome camera, you probably won’t get such kick ass pictures.  You also might be like me, and not so really impressed.  However, it’s a national monument and grand in its own way, so you should probably see it.

Lastly, I have to mention Sturgis, since that is what most people know South Dakota for, the huge biker party that happens annually.  Well, I wasn’t there for that, and didn’t really stop in Sturgis, but if any of you have, I would love for your comments.  Until next time, keep on road tripping.

Series by: A Wandering Soul, aka Juror #11

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