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Great Eat: Il Fornello, London

If you’re poking around Russell Square (the British Museum area) of London and it’s cold and you are in desperate need of warmth, you need to go to Il Fornello (150 Southampton Row, known for being open even on holidays). Not only are the owners and wait staff Italian (there is a lone Spaniard, but he speaks beautiful Italian), but they exude the “eat! be merry!” Italian attitude that is hard to muster on a chilly London evening. I had some of the best spaghetti bolognese I’ve ever had there, and the waiter was the nice and friendly and sent my garlic bread (I didn’t want cheese) back twice without me saying anything about it. The ladies eating near me – Italian ex-pats – tucked in on the Scalloppine al Marsala and Costolette d’Agnello alla Griglia, and we all agreed that the tiramisu was divine. Il Fornello is a great place to meet friends or make new ones – the atmosphere is homey and worn, but in a good sort of way. They have cheeses and antipasti dishes that would satisfy meat lovers and vegetarians, and their Italian fair is traditionally and resolutely Italian; the beers and waters selection are even imported from Italy. Next time you’re looking for Italian food in London (for a decent cost), consider Il Fornello – you won’t be disappointed.

Cardiff, Wales, UK

There aren’t many negative things you could say about Cardiff, the capital of Wales; it’s a very walkable, friendly city, with small neighborhoods branching out of its city center that deserve exploration on their own. If you go to Cardiff, be prepared to drink some Brains, the local beer and thus sponsor of the (very, very popular) local Rugby team. The colors are red and green, so dress accordingly. Cardiff is a city of malls – often linked by pedestrian-only streets, like Queen’s Road – with zillions of shops that offer everything from great eats to rare books to the world’s oldest record store, Spiller’s. You can’t miss the city’s castle, which has an rich history and pretty fascinating museum (the gift store/coffee shop also sells international stamps, if you’re looking to send a postcard). While the folks in Cardiff are proud of their Welsh history and every sign is in Welsh and English, you can get around without speaking much Welsh, though a “hello” or “thank you” is much appreciated. Cardiff’s bus system is simple to navigate, so getting from, say, the city center to Mermaid Quay, is as easy as one-pound-seventy (please use exact change). Mermaid Quay, situated on Cardiff Bay, is home to many shops and such that have a bit less unique charm than their city counterparts, but you can do all sorts of outdoorsy stuff in the Bay in the warmer months (a trip in mid-February was pretty cold and damp, but hey, it’s the UK). The “Oval,” where the old Norwegian Church is located (look for Roald Dahl Plass under the pedestrian footbridge if you’re a fan) is also a major Dr. WHO fan site. A walk in beautiful Bute Park is a must, and you can see the River Taff as well as walk along the famed Taff Trail, which extends from the Millennium Center to the Breacon Beacons Park. Also, if you’re walking, it’s about a half hour walk from Cardiff’s city center to the “ancient village” of Llandaff, which has since been incorporated into Cardiff but is a little hamlet of its own right, with a magnificent ancient cathedral and lovely little pubs. Cardiff was hard to leave, as is much of the UK – next time you’re there, go down south and see what the capital of Wales is all about.

GREECE – the Definitive (Pocket) Guide

Happy New Year! We’re starting 2013 off with a bang – Greece! The Definitive Guide. Check it out and happy travels this year from TravelByJury.com!

Earlier this year, I traveled to Greece with three of my girlfriends. None of us had ever been, and for two girls, it was a first trip abroad. I can honestly say that it was one of the biggest successes and greatest things any of us has ever done.

One of the first things I would say about it is that we really recommend traveling by custom tour. Rather than getting locked in with some tour group (usually of older folks) that tells you when to eat and buses you around with the same people the whole time, and rather than doing anything whatsoever involving a cruise ship, we booked a custom tour with a company called CTC Turkey. You tell them which destinations you want to go to and how long you want to stay, and they book the hotels that they know are good and set you up with all the internal travel – including taxis from the airports and short flights between islands. All of that is included in their price, which, by the way, was very agreeable. Each time we got off of a plane or high-speed catamaran, there was someone waiting for us, holding a piece of paper with my name on it. Worry-free travel! The rest of the trip was up to us, which is exactly how we liked it. We got to choose which tours to go on (Acropolis, Delos), when and where to dine, when we had had enough of a certain outing, and even when to nap. I highly recommend this style of travel.

As for Greece itself, we could not have been more pleased. Everyone there was so friendly and happy to see tourists there to spend money in these troubling economic times. Everyone we came into contact with spoke English and Greek, and signs and menus were also in English. We were told there was a big effort to make it this way when Athens hosted the Olympics recently. I am a bit of a picky eater, but even I fell in love with such traditional foods as tzaziki and moussaka.

Our travels took us to Athens, Mykonos, and Santorini, and each had something different and wonderful to offer. It’s hard to be more historic than the Acropolis and the first modern Olympic stadium in Athens, and I bet it’s difficult to get more beautiful than the white buildings and green waters in the Cyclades. My friends all counted Mykonos as their favorite, but I was most fond of Santorini, with its volcanic caldera and unique terrain. We did all the typical tourist things, including take pictures in front of the Parthenon in Athens, go out on the town until 4:00 a.m. in Mykonos, and ride the donkeys up the mountain in Santorini. Our most special activity, however, was more of a surprise. We had booked spots on a 30-person catamaran to do a sunset sail around the caldera, plus dinner on the boat, in Santorini. As it turned out, there were some technical difficulties with one of the company’s catamarans, so they put the four of us on one of the private yachts instead. We did not complain, and it ended up being the highlight of the trip. I’m sure the bottomless wine did not hurt either.

All in all, our trip to Greece was phenomenal, and I would recommend it to anyone. The prices were better than many European destinations, and the mix of historic and beach attractions was just what we were looking for. In addition, everyone was so friendly, helpful, and happy to welcome us. We were all very depressed to return to the United States, and I think that about says it all.

-Juror #33

Gobble ‘Til You Wobble

Happy Thanksgiving to our United States readers from TravelByJury.com! Check out all of our great eats as you gear up to gobble ’til you wobble! We’re thankful for you – so keep the reviews coming!

the Cart, Hanoi, Vietnam
Gracie’s, Salt Lake City, Utah
Linger Lodge, Bradenton, Florida
The Wine Shop, Charlotte, North Carolina
Harvest, Louisville, Kentucky
Bison Witches Bar & Deli, Tempe, Arizona
Pachapapa, Cusco, Peru
Ladles, Mt. Pleasant, South Carolina
Loose Meat Sandwiches in Sioux City, Iowa
Granja Heidi, Cusco, Peru
Jack’s Cafe, Cusco, Peru
Caffe Pomodoro, Panama City, Panama
Desserts of Louisville, Kentucky
Gilpin’s Sandwiches, Cincinnati, Ohio
Cafe Campanilla, Madrid, Spain
Dickadee’s Deli, Charlotte, North Carolina
La Bombeta, Barcelona, Spain
Medjool, San Francisco, California
De’Coltelli, Pisa, Italy
Kashmir, Louisville, Kentucky
Barley’s Taproom, Asheville, North Carolina
Maggie Jones; London, England
The General Greene & Cake Man Raven; Brooklyn, New York, USA
La Paella De La Reina; Madrid, Spain
Brasserie Esemeralla; Paris, France
Black Bear Bakery; St. Louis, Missouri, USA
Murphy’s Ice Cream; Dingle, Ireland
Ristorante Zeppelin; Orvieto, Italy
Uto Klum; Üetliberg, Switzerland
Seviche, Louisville, Kentucky, USA
Unnammed; Le Peninsula de Azuero, Panama
Three Carrots Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
White Horse Tavern; New York City, New York, USA
The Duke of York; London, England

Happy St. Patrick’s Day from TravelByJury.com!

Not the typical Irish lout we think of on St. Patrick's Day, but he did clear the snakes from Ireland, lest we forget the reason of the season;)

Even though the site is currently on Sabbatical, it seemed like a nice idea to spread the luck o’ the travelin’ Irish this St. Patrick’s Day – so your trusty TBJ Admin cobbled together the best of our Irish-themed posts. Enjoy, and sláinte!

Great Eat: Murphy’s Ice Cream, Dingle, Ireland
Dingle, Ireland
Cork, Ireland
St. Patrick’s Day the Chicago,IL Way!
Three Carrots Irish Pub; Belgrade, Serbia
Louisville, KY’s Irish Pubs

May your blessings outnumber the Shamrocks that grow, and may trouble avoid you wherever you go!

Graz, Austria

The area of Europe known as Styria is rich with history and natural beauty; this are of the Austro-Hungarian empire and Holy Roman Empire once contained bits of Slovenia and Germany. Now an Austrian state, Styria and its capital, Graz, are wonderful places to stop by when poking around Europe. Graz is Austria’s second biggest city, which you don’t really get a feel for until you climb (or take the lift through a World War II tunnel) the Schloßberg and look out from the Clock Tower (part of the extensive old fort that deserves a few hours of roaming) over the city. Graz is pretty compact, in terms of sightseeing, and you probably won’t need to use the super-easy to navigate tram system. You’ve got to check out the modern art museum, the Kunsthaus, not only for the fantastic exhibits but also for the view from the top of the strange, blue, bulging building. This museum’s proximity to the lovely Mariahilferstraße area, which had neat restaurants and shops, had its bonuses, and one can always orient oneself by looking for the Clock Tower, which looms over the city. Also check out the Murinsel, which resembles a clam floating over the River Mur, from one of the many bridges across the river; the locks on the bridges are likely the mark of young loves locking their “love” to the bridge and tossing the key into the river as a “forever” type of gesture. Roaming around the various parts of Graz will reveal the UNESCO-labelled Old Town and the Glockenspiel, as well as an Armory Museum and Cathedral of Graz, but I visited at Christmas time and was more entranced by the Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkts) than the sites; Graz would definitely be a great place to rediscover your Christmas spirit if you’re feeling Scrooge-y. Graz is a vibrant city with something for everyone and never ceased to charm me.

Maribor, Slovenia

Nestled in the Pohorje Mountains in the mysterious Styria region of Europe is the charming city of Maribor, Slovenia. It’s becoming a semi-popular European skiing and winter-sports destination, and the city, which is home to a the University of Maribor and thus a large academic and student population, is rife with fun things to do outdoors in the spring and summer as well. The first things you’re likely to do when in Maribor, however, is head straight to the Old Vine, the Guinness-certified oldest producing wine vine in the world. The vine, as well as its accompanying museum/store, are worth a stop, but its the gentle amble along the Drava in Lent, Maribor’s “old town,” that will be the most enjoyable. Stop by the market in Lent and pick up pumpkin seed oil (or just browse trinkets or fresh fruit, veggies, and jams), as well as take in the popular landmarks such as the Judgement Tower and Water Tower. Maribor can be enjoyed in its pedestrianized squares, Slomškov Trg and Glanvi Trg in particular are good for tucking in a drink outside and people watching, and the city is friendly and warm. While locals often drive to nearby Graz, Austria (about a 45 minute drive) to shop, there’s a lot of nice stores in Maribor, especially near the castle in Grajski Trg. The University and Slovene National Theater keep the city steady on classic and cutting edge arts and culture, and the city’s various monuments – relating to historical subjects that are a testament to the age of the city: the Plague,and, Communist occupation, the Second World War – are worth a look, especially the bizarre National Liberation Memorial. The cathedral and castle are lovely, and the view from Piramida Hill in Mestni Park. Maribor is easy to get around, and if you do grab a cab, it’ll be a cheap and quick ride. Maribor is a beautiful introduction to Slovenia and a wonderfully charming European city that deserves your visit – but do note that you’ll be arriving by car or train, as Maribor doesn’t have an airport (most people take a train from Ljubljana or Graz’s airports; the train from Graz can take a bit if you don’t time it right).

Barcelona, Spain

Two strange things happened to me as soon as I arrived in Barcelona: 1) I saw the city’s old bull fighting ring in Placa Espanya being turned into a mall and 2) three guys attempted to rob me in a crowded Metro station. The juxtaposition was interesting; Barcelona is undoubtedly an interesting experience – it’s a harder, more bawdy area of Spain than it’s Atlantic-side sibling Madrid (yes, Madrid is inland, but in terms of size…), but it’s also rowdy and beautiful. The area’s strict adherence to Castillian Spanish (Catalan) might confuse even good Spanish speakers, but everyone knows Spanish – they just prefer the regional dialect. The Barri Gotic area is filled with corners and alleyways that beg for further exploration, not to mention the Picasso museum and the Cathedral de Barcelona, a gothic wonder that was only enhanced by the (rare) rainy weather I experienced. The beaches were rained out while I was there, but the rows of tasty tapas and fresh seafood restaurants at the shoreline would likely be great spots on sunnier days; similarly, Mont Jjuic, the famous grand fort, probably has better, less foggy views (and a less harrowing cable car ride) when the clouds aren’t out, but definitely walk down and check out Olympic park. Pass the Mirador de Colom up Las Ramblas, which boasts a fabulous fresh market, flamenco (Tablao Cordobes is pretty damn good), and souvenirs, but its seedy atmosphere can make you uncomfortable – dive off the main drag for great pizza and bar times, if you’re game. A visit to the Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell, the famous Gaudi park, are definite musts when going to Barcelona, if for no other reason than there is nothing else quite like Gaudi’s art in the world. La Ciudadela Parc, however, was probably one of my favorite parts of the city – there’s a paddle-boat pond, and it’s just a beautiful spot. Barcelona is choc full of stuff to do – the Maritime Musuem, the University area, Avegnida Diagonal, soccer (futbol – the home team is Barca, pronounced “Bar-Sa”) etc. etc. – and it’s a city for living loud and large, so have a great time… and watch your belongings:)

Great Eat: Cafe Campanilla, Madrid, Spain

If you have the pleasure of staying outside of Madrid proper and closer to the airport – cheaper prices, harder to get in town – you may also have the pleasant surprise of a really fabulous, tasty dinner at Cafe Campanilla! When circumstances dictated that we stay another night in Madrid (and be up really early for a new flight) we opted to stay on the outskirts of awesome Madrid, which led us to a lovely meal at the unassuming Cafe Campanilla; we chose it because it was teeming with locals and easy on the wallet. Cafe Campanilla is a typical small Spanish cafe, serving various tapas – think ham croquettes, empanadas, chorizo dishes, some pasta, octopus, eggplant, breads, etc. – in an decidedly laid-back setting. The cafe has outdoor seating, which is choice in the summertime, as the inside of the restaurant is only cooled off by a few large fans, and those are aimed at the cooks, and rightly so. The patio seating and traditional menu make eating here a treat, and ordering a mini-bottle of red wine will only set you back about €6. While being in the midst of Madrid is a great time, getting to the outskirts of the Spanish capital allows for some nice chatting with locals, a peaceful and quiet place to dine, and some seriously great food at Cafe Campanilla.

Great Eat: La Bombeta, Barcelona, Spain

While you’re poking around in the Barceloneta area of Barcelona, you might as well veer off the beaten path (perhaps even with a newly-minted sorta-local, like your Barcelona-dwelling sibling) and take in some tapas, one of the few “Spanish” cultural things the prideful Catalan region of Spain still keeps (along with their lispy Castellano Spanish, yet no more bull-fighting in Barcelona – the bull ring in central Barcelona is now a mall). La Bombeta, located on a side street off the Mediterranean coastline of Barcelona, near the Drassanes metro, boasts that “aqui no hablamos ingles pero hacemos unas bombas cojonudas,” (here we don’t speak English but we’re making ‘bombs’” – meaning the “bombeta” tapas – meat rolled in dough and fried) so make sure to know your Spanish… or be willing to point to things on the menu and hope for a good bet, which you’ll probably find here. The waiters, while friendly, don’t budge on the language issue, so grab an Estrella (the local beer) or some vino tinto (red wine) and tuck in. La Bombeta has great patatas bravas covered with two mysterious and stomach-challenging sauces, and the chorizo and Spanish omelet are fantastic too. The pimientos del padron, pulpo were popular with those hanging out in the low-ceilinged, sparse-but-homey interior, and the mejillones (mussels) come either steamed (“de vapo”) or in a marinara sauce. The best Spanish tapas I’ve ever had were in San Sebastian, Spain – an area renowned for it’s gastronomical splendor – but La Bombeta is a great spot to get away from the more touristy areas (note – only cash is accepted here! NO cards!) and take in some authentic and muy rico tapas while in fabulous Barcelona.

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